I've gone back to make 6 or 7 clear threads in the case .. There's not many more threads on the plug but hard to tell with a taper where it will stop without tightening and don't want to do that yet... PTFE!.. A new option to add to my list...
i thought you where supposed to use parallel taps so you don't put stress on the case... the fittings into my case for external oil cooler are parallel...................
nothing compared to the stress this engines put on me after taking it out to clean it up a bit! got NPT taps and plugs now so I'll crank and hope....
I think, so long as you use the respective fittings, it should be fine. The taper, from memory acts as a retainer as the taper locks the (in this case) blanking plug in place. but that's from memory!
Ta.. I guess all taps are a bit different with a taper on them.. so it's trial and error to see how deep a tap needs to go to get a thread of plug left when tight.. hopefully get back in the garage next week and get on with putting it all back together..
Have you gone down the hole with taper cut, second cut tap and finally the plug tap? That could be why the blanking plug is tight
Normally you'd cut the case with a parallel tap, then use the taper on the plug to lock it off... using a taper tap can lead to issues of setting the plug in too deep There's not a lot of material to play with on the lower of the two galleries
It wasn't tight, that was just a quick make sure it's fitting run.. Just been back to run tap deeper and plug fits flush when tight now. I went straight in with a 14.5 drill.. no taper.. no second plug.... Just plug end NPT tap.. goes in nice and easy with WD40 using a socket set instead of the T piece which just starts hitting case and stuff...seems to work!
It was tapering too deep that was worrying me and dont want to be going in and out with a tap too often and ruining the sealing threads . think I've got a handle on the depth to run it now as long as all plugs are the same ....half a turn less than this! ...I'll have to start being carefull!
So like he said.. took gear to local machine shop.. £10 later.. Edit.. More info importantly if you don't machine it chances are your cam bolts will hit your oil pump bolts... This work left me 0.3mm spare! See later posts Tried to get a counterbore to do it at home but couldn't find one to fit holes and make a flat area big enough for washer and bolt head. Holes do need opening up a touch to get bolts to fit cam nicely. The 21/64th bit for doing my galleries npt plugs did it just nice it's 8.3mm. So bolted and torqued (after an hour search for the wrench) to 14ft.lb. And just for reference rearmost lobe pointing down when timing dot is at top of cam gear.
So turned my case into a Swiss Cheese And went through a tap rinse check repeat cycle to get plugs in right depth... mostly ok and hope the ones that are deep or shallow can cope! So, assuming were looking from the back of a van... Front left Front right Carefull on this one a brass? tube for the fuel pump rod is behind it.. makes the plug a bit shallow too! Back left Watch that middle one of the three..(no.5) its got another plug behind the first one that you don't want to drill.... Back right Right hand side Had to take case stud out to drill this one...'a' and '' really shouldn't be drilled.. Grub screws stuck in them now.. Right side by oil cooler And.. Tried 'c' but wouldn't move...
Edited above to stick numbers on them... Red circled plugs are 3/8th NPT I tried a 37/64th drill as per American site recommendations but it was a straight shaft and wouldn't fit my drill chuck... 14.5mm worked fine for me... Green circled plugs 1/4 NPT I used a 7/16 drill bit..as close to 11.1mm as you can get if you want metric I suppose The one blueish circled was a 1/8th NPT. I used a 21/64th drill bit.. 8.5mm would do I think.. White circles a and b I think are casting marks! Got drill happy c just wasn't for moving got lucky an drilled tapped for a 1/4 NPT plug I used loctite 243 to seal in.. Blue stuff.. Though PTFE and a host of others Curil t etc would probably do the job as the NPT plugs really do bite stuck at the end of their travel. Cleaning the galleries behind them I found the Fast Mover paint gun cleaning kit worked quite well.. But do need extending to get all the way down the galleries from the front (fly wheel end!)
And moving swiftly on... Cleaned my bits.. And my connecting rods After a scrub with detergent, a spray and wiped with WD40 ..blast with carb cleaner then air gunned dry. For good measure and peace of mind... Plastiguage.. The flashed out number is 0.05mm..Bentley has So we're good Cooked the cam gear on a skillet on the camping stove Slid straight on no bother at all..as did distributer gear.. Don't forget the spacer... Dowel hole in bearing no 3 towards the front.. Flywheel end.. Probably should have remembered to fit in case and mark it for alignment to make fitting easier later... And a movie to try...
One observation. Have you had new bearings? Our new #3 main bearing had the oil hole drilled 25mm out of kilter to the engine case - http://www.thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/morks-type-4-1800-ap-engine-project.30925/page-12 page 12 shows the detail. Have a quick check @Deefer66 as I'd hate for you to build the motor and it seize relatively quickly
After going through these threads again over lunch.. great work there @MorkC68 and @paulandchez.... I notice that following Jake Rabys dvd misses all the spec checks ... probably because his "friends" give him nice new or rebuilt bits so he can just fit and go... cheating if you ask me . Just thought I'd say if anyone is going to do this too... those threads above give you great help on things you should do before the steps in the dvd. Steps like checking the crank spins nicely in the bearings is probably easier before you put the con rods back on... If only I could remember these before I do them in a cold garage with brain freeze after work! Probably wouldn't wake up worrying you'd put #3 bearing on the wrong way round before refitting the gears then
That's the beauty of Tom Wilsons book, combine it with Raby's DVD and some patience and care and you cannot go far wrong! Did you check the oil hole on the bearing?
