Just went vanilla.. std grind ..as I hope it's close to what VW thought best. Besides if I've got a choice it could take a long time to read through all the pros and cons of each one and then they might have a knock on effect so trying to go stock where I can... and I don't know any better
After worrying about timing and being 180 degrees out on the cam.. There's 2 TDC's on No.1 for every spin of the cam ....made a video to help me picture it .. Hope it's right and might help someone else. Turns out should just listen to Jake Raby.. Puts it spot on, and quite easy. Sometimes..post that tomorrow..
But before that...Installed the shined up distributor Just like Jake says.. Installed cam by putting crank dot at about 2o'clock... Put cam wheel in lining up dots and rolled it keeping teeth meshed into bearings in saddles. Then spin crank round to check dots are still lined up.. Like above. Then spin crank up back to vertical ...No.1 at top dead centre..(the right one) Actually I found it best just past.. Line up your distributor with rotor arm to small mark in rim of distributor pop on the drive shaft with the spring in between and your clamp on (the right way round or you'll have to do it again.. ) Push it in till cogs just meet... Jiggle crank and push distributor.. Should pop into place Ta da.. Should be able to push finger (green arrow) below and see shoulder on drive shaft (red arrow) move a bit.. It says do this without spring in some texts but this way I can see it move back and forward a little Cam backlash... Hold crank still and try to rock cam wheel.. Small click OK.. Big click bad... Spin crank both ways a bit.. Cam shouldn't try to pop up... Think that's it...
On your marks... get set... go... Cam lubed up... pick up tube seal fitted..permatexed and pushed in... Mating surfaces panel wiped and carb cleanered up ... curil t sparingly spread over right hand side of case! Decided there was less harware to work around on that side. Cam plug had sealant applied and fitted in.. Case nuts fitted washer covered in Curil T held in place by pasticy spacer... Sorry no pictures camera didn't save them.... Mrs Deefer employed to hold rods out of the way and case halves put together..spacers stop it from mating like it did before.. Big soft hammer sorts that mostly.. Torquing nuts up does the rest.. Lashings of curil t at back of every washer Big six case nuts done to 12ftlb then 25ft lb then all the smaller perimiter ones ( apart from oil pump) as above including the one I missed installed and tightened to 15ft lb. . Including the troublemaker oil pick up bolt ... Oil pump reassembled gears greased up to help prime it.. new o ring from gasket set.. The thin one of the two identical diameter ones...gasket permatexed up both sides and pump pushed in.. and tightened on then two case nuts put on and tightened up.. Job done.. short motor ready to check crank end play...
Very enjoyable thread, particularly the way you just accepted that it is what it is and got on with fixing it. It's the only way to live.
I think that's a Porche version of the engines only. .. wasn't in either if these cases I've taken apart. .
Found some pump pictures...cleaned up.. not sure how to measure end play on a type 4 but didn't look too worn and couldn't rock drive shaft when assembled so hope it's good! These are the two sealing ring options in the gasket set..you want the thin one here... Grease up a bit ** Edit: Assembly lube would have been better!** Repacked and good to go with gasket..
I may have read somewhere that they more common in higher performance cars (Porsche) than Bus..Im sure Mr Weeding has a stash of windage trays though
Flywheel moves 1.03mm min to 1.07mm max measured 3 times at 1/4 turns of fly wheel I'm aiming for .07mm to .13mm?.... So I need 3 shims that add up to 0.95mm?.. I think... Just given up on trying to install pistons with cable ties I'm off to buy a ring compressor tomorrow ... time for Sunday dinner!
I don't understand the first bit. Put 2 shims in then measure for 3rd. You need a ring compressor you can get back out from in among the studs - the simple cheap plain ring with bent out ends is favourite for this reason.
Ta .. I meant 3 repeated measures at 12,3 6 and 9 o'clock. . Can i use 2 old shims and buy I to make up ..or do i buy 2 then go back for 1 more? Or do they come in big packs of multiples
Yes I understood that, it was the measuring method. I assume 3 came out and 3 came out of your old engine so you already have 6 possibles. Discard any with burrs, or that are dished or blued with heat etc. I've assumed you have a micrometer or digital vernier (cheap on ebay). Pick 2 at random and fit. Measure end float. See if you have one to get you to spec. If not, measure the two you had fitted and your spares and work it out. I don't know why it's done like this rather than with none fitted, it just is in any book I've read. You might have to buy one, generally the thicker ones survive longest and you'll need one thinner one - sods law.
