Story so far…. Me and Mrs Deefer bought a big part-started airfix kit… called Lola (she’s more Kinks than Manilow) Not an easy task as the low loader we hired broke down after a 5 hour drive before we got there. Mrs Deefer returned on her own with a new truck and after a 18 hour day arrived home…. So we tidied up the outside…. So I thought I’d clean up the oily engine to match, just a quick wipe down and paint, purely cosmetic, because it was a good runner when pulled up to restore….;-) But...had some issues with oil pick up strainer plate nut.. http://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/type-4-trainer-oil-pick-up-stud-sheared.58196/ So we went in to have a look, and comments were correct, case of Type 4 Syndrome. Common comment out there on ‘tinterweb – when dismantling cases loosen strainer bolt off before removing bolt that supports it, this should be the first case bolt undone, takes the strain off this part of the case. So despite kind offers of repairable cases I went out and bought a long block, thinking I’d get a few spares and get most of my outlay back from ebay!But had a few issues with that too http://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/type-4-cj-case-teardown-take-2.58863/ Pistons wouldn’t move, so I trashed the barrels with a hammer, pistons still wouldn’t move and after three or four days of messing managed to get open case enough to spin around crank and get to pins to remove pistons. Crank was a bit rusty, rods weren’t moving. So asked for help again... http://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/splitting-case-with-seized-crank.59054/ Anyway came apart in the end and now have a reasonable case with dodgy insides, and a broken case with good insides (goodish anyway - after a quick check with a micrometer). So I’m going to rebuild a Type 4 CJ (2.0 ltr ) engine . There’s others on here too but I thought I’d share in case there’s anything new to get/give from/to others. Top tips so far… Watch oil strainer nut – remove carefully, mine just snapped off but there were some modifications suggesting this wasn’t a new issue to the engine! Undo this before removing the bolt that supports it, helps prevent braking the case. If the case doesn’t come apart quite easy – you’ve missed a nut somewhere, clean it up a bit more and have another look after a cup of tea.. (both times for me, the cases were very dirty) Edit: I'll add here as I remember Slacken the case nuts each side of the oil pump before trying to pull it out... New bits for the inside are quite expensive (especially cams! – more later) but Coolair VW do a 10% discount to members with 50 posts or more.(other shops are available – and do discount, discounts and prices may vary) I’ll catch up with were I’m up to now soon!..
Cor blimey!!! Sounds like you've been having fun. Sure the relevant knowledgeable people will be along soon but good luck with it all
Heres a bit of light reading for you ;D http://www.thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/morks-type-4-1800-ap-engine-project.30925/ and http://www.thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/my-type-4-engine-build-based-on-ap-1800.50459/ I know they are 1800 motors, the gist of things will be covered for you!
Oh and thanks to everyone that's got me this far... Well a bit further actually too many to list and don't want to miss anyone out
You've beaten me to it, I've just started cleaning up my case because I've been given a parts washer It's the original from the pickup, I had the same issues with the Pistons rusted into the barrels So they need replacing as I've hammered the poo out of them , I won't do a separate thread just keep an eye on this and chip in with the odd question probably, My case , crank, camshaft and heads seem so far ok, good luck
Are there any clean type 4s?..I made a washer I could fit the case in from a storage box and a 12v pump! Did the trick mostly. Which brings me on to job 1... Cleaning the case... Looked into the ususal suspects, soda cleaning, vapour blasting etc.. Seemed a lot of cash considering they say get the oil off first! Durr that's why I want it cleaning.... Anyway found spraying with parafin from the garden centre and scrubbing with a washing up brush then hot soapy water with bio washing powder in did quite a good job... Disappointed by sneaking into garage jet wash .. They don't use hot water... So you end up putting wet oily soapy bits of engine back in the boot of your car..
And on another thread @mikedjames suggested drilling and tapping oil galleries... So thanks to @zed for the tip... Drill tap plug for a m6 bolt, bolt though socket washer nut, tighten nut out comes plug..
Quick orientation lesson for those like me who don't know their big end from their elbow... Measured mine up They all came up the same, tried measuring across the case after bolting together but hard to get micrometer into case and don't have a bore micrometer.. But no 2 came to 70.01 Cam bore Did this again after cleaning and was 27.5 Target numbers Oil pump bore and other checked ...So case good to go...
Your main crank bearings should give you a clue as to whether it's been rebuilt before, look what the part numbers are & they'll cross reference to std, +0.25, +0.5 etc. We went from standard to 0.75 bearings as the crank had to be reground to 0.75 under, it's max allowable grind size. It had a score on one journal
When you get around to installing the cam bearings, lay them in the case, drop the cam in and then gently tap the cam back and forward to seat the bearings correctly. The red engine rebuild book doesn't mention this (it is otherwise fantastic) but I lunched the cam bearings, cam and cam gear within 2000 miles of rebuilding my CJ All good now, 4000 miles+ on the second rebuild
Good point... Check the backs of the bearings should have a part number.. Mine had 102.105.531.E he VW logo a K'S and an elephant from both cases (aparently original issue), so crank and case are standard size If your bearing look like the top one they're goosed, if like bottom one could be checked if your stuck I suppose... New standard/standard ones have a part no. 021.198.481.A.... Silverline ones do anyway
If it was me rebuilding the motor, I'd go get the crank reground; after measuring thrice over that is. But that would be me for peace of mind knowing it has been done!
I had to go .5 big on crank brearings as at the time you couldn`t get bearings ...but i found a set of NOS KS ones but 0.5 big ..crank regrind was about £80
I did measure thrice and got 59.97 on journals 1, 2 and 3 apart from one on 3 which came in 59.95.. Bentley said Though no wear shown in table notes said Which I took to give me a min of 59.94.. Run out measured on journals 2 and 4 before I took gear off and balanced back in the case was 0.01. If it had been the crank from the dirty case I probably would have gone down the regrind route but as journals were nice and smooth to my scabby nails I went with if it's good enough for Bentley it's good enough for me and have gone Std/Std/Std...and put the cash towards a new cam and followers....
Removing timing gears... It can be done without a press, no heat just grind the feet of the puller down enough to fit between gear and bearing. Do it evenly or puller is a bit skew.. And not too much or they might snap... But it worked.. starts to move with a bit of a jolt.. thought something had snapped... Tape on bearing 4 journal to protect it
Coolio! Its attention to detail like that & triple checking things over that gives you the confidence to do the next stage
Got some plastiguage to play with so might just check No2 along with the con journals ... don't know what I do if I don't like the numbers at that point thought
