....forgot some modifications required for today! First...yolk for engine stand.. Got one that a starter can bolt to.. but lug catches on flywheel.. 5 mins with Mr Angle grinder sorted that Then the gallery plug at the front right behind flywheel... The one that won't go in much due to fuel pump rod tube needs filing down And just in case the two small studs on the flywheel that caught it...
Just read your whole thread with interest, have always wanted to rebuild an engine after watching/helping a mate build a cross flow many years ago , though a type 4 seems a lot more complicated!
They're not that bad... though I don't know any better... rebuilds are probably as complicated as you want them to be... like oil galleries. .. I only did that when the second case I had looked like it had been filled with water then buried in a claypit
Certainly looks complicated to me ! I have quite a bigish oil leak on mine and think it might be an engine out job to rectify, but then I guess its a case of how far you go when it's out ! It's been fascinating reading , and yet again proof that there are some very knowledgeable and nice people on this forum.
They certainly are very helpful. .. Post a picture of your oil leak in the mech tech bit.... It'll help narrow it down.. Then Zedders can tell you what needs fixing! Edit.. oops sorry just been to look.. you have!!!+
Yes your right I did post a pic but not a very good one though , going to degrease the area and find exactly where it's coming from then I'll post another picture !
So got a chance to get in the garage again. Took these And stuck them on the back end Did have to get the magnets out to rescue the woodruff key I'm guessing the degree marker on the fan is offset from vertical...its about 11o'clockish... So I put a couple of extra marks on for TDC to line up with case line for when heads are on. Took the dial gauge to .2mm past highest point each side and split the difference as it's hard to tell with the lag at TDC. Also re did end float as @zedders said two shims on.. Measure play fit appropriate third shim.... If only I'd have read the right Bentley page.. Anyway.. After getting a replacement shim from VWH.. Original was wrong diameter... fitted them all on, oiled up with assembly lube instead of dry as when measuring Lost all endplay! Hoping it squeezes out lube overnight and will try and measure tomorrow... Otherwise it's out with the oil seal and go through it all again...
Ah well... I'd suggest another step in the Bentley notes above at point 4... check endplay again before putting in oil seal...
Hope so feels like it's been going on a while... get the heads back together this weekend.. guides valves etc... Permission to use over for engine parts requested ....guides already in freezer Would I be opening a whole new can of worms to replace exhaust studs?
we used the fridge at work - luckily no one noticed! What are your current head studs like, if they look good, do you want to risk stripping the threads on the head. Pop a photo up for reference
You'd have thought I'd have one with the phone full I've got.... take one later. One came out with the the nut.. wound out... not stripped got nut off with a bit of heat...though I'd just test the rest if they come out with no force swap for new... any resistance leave em..
Ta.... I did the measuring to order the shim before b&p went on... will take em back off for checking again tho.... bet that made a difference too..doh! ...looks like another school day... B&P common off to fit new shims under them anyway..
All back together play measured at 0.07mm to 0.09mm around the clock...slightly under on one but sure it'll slacken off a whole load more once its running .
Mostly like this...apart from the new one They're not for moving and don't look too bad so leaving them... what I do with 7 more exhaust studs I dint know!.. might refurbish those spare oval port heads... when I get bored...
the trick to cleaning rusty things like that is to use a copper bristle' wire brush. The bristles are softer than steel wire brushes and get in the nooks and crannies more
Epic fail on valve guide insertion. .. baked at 250 for an hour guides from freezer. . Drifts made up and ready.. stopped half way top of guide starting to deform... then valve seats fell out from air hammer rattle... .. ah well tried anyway... it was broken before.. still broken now.. anyone know of a good shop in northwest for valve guide and seat replacement?
