The new 'new old house resto' thread

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Ermintrude, Oct 24, 2018.

  1. as the frames will be painted this will be sanded back anyway. it's the doors i need a relatively quick solution for. I have a kitchen to finish, and a bus and bug!
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  2. The dip we used was a non caustic solution but was warm .... They came out the same shape and with all joints fine ... it was a bit "hairy" though, like suede almost.
    Sanded off easily.
  3. Hmmm fair play, bugger. Best guess is it’s just old varnish ? Sanded to give a key and then painted over? Can’t think what else it could be. So heat gun scorches the wood underneath in seconds ?
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  4. yes because the brown goo catches light very easily. i can paint over scorch marks on the frames but want to leave the doors stripped and without scorching :/
  5. Unfortunately they did take the Good Stuff (methylene chloride) out of Nitromors, and replaced it with organic wholemeal tofu, which couldn't dissolve the skin off a rice pudding.

    The brown gunge is some kind of undercoat, I think: our 30s house has the same. Gentle heating'n'scraping will remove it (eventually).
  6. Indeed ... Old varnish will be more brittle and therefore easier to shift with the blade :thumbsup:
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  7. They used some weird stuff in the 30's didn't they?! Have you got any of that black "plaster" in lathe and plaster ceilings?
  8. not come across any yet but still one ceiling to take down *gulp* found all sorts of stuff though, here's the original thread
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  9. 9BC92EC8-9C6B-4F00-A2FB-017A1F42A037.jpeg 790C8039-6D34-4B6A-BE2E-A667C429E0BE.jpeg 36853B85-988B-42A5-A3E7-8189554C6268.jpeg 2B5D3481-89C7-4947-AE57-B1FE839251D8.jpeg Used to either have dipped or heavy gauge pro grit paper , like they use in floor sanders in disc or vibe pad sander . Done loads back in the day ,god knows what’s in my lungs :oops: these had from 3 to seven coats of paint all dipped and sanded ,

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    Last edited: Feb 9, 2019
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  10. I did s load of doors like that a couple of years ago, I found best way was either a very sharp scraper, and or a power sander, bon chance

    Took a loooong time though.....!
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  11. So you’re fine with the door frames, architrave etc, but need to be careful with the door coz it’s going to be left unpainted and therefore unable to cover over any inadvertent scorch marks?
    How hard is it to get through the old brown layer with a belt sander? Can you be accurate enough to heat gun the paint but leave the old varnish brown gunge?
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  12. Heat it up to get most of it off, wait until it solidifies again, then sand the remains off. Awful stuff.
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  14. Yeah that’s kind of what I was thinking. Bugger that it can’t be got off in one go, but less layers would be better than nothing.
  15. In our place it was a nightmare. A lot of it I just sanded it flat and primered over it.
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  16. No good though if you want natural wood doors. Mind you, taking the top layer of the old varnish off with sandpaper might enable the new watered down version of nitromors to work? It’s a bit rubbish compared with the old toxic stuff, but I’ve used it on old dining chairs and it still has some merit.
  17. that's what i've been doing with frames and the exterior doors, and why te interior doors remain untouched :(
    depends on the thickness of paint and brown gunge, so too risky on the doors. think i'll be sticking with the dipping for them - still plenty of frames and architrave to keep me busy :D
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  18. one new engine, two poorly parents, three jobs and a lot more uncovering of house jobs ago!
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  19. I've never had any luck with the new Nitromors. You may as well use jam.

    If you do heat the brown gunge up, it does go solid when it cools down, rather than squishy. Easier to sand.
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  20. The other ting with dipping you get nice old colour
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