The All New, New "What have you done to your Bay today" thread.

Nope. It will be EFI , none of this half baked carburettor junk.

 

Woke up in it,

Camping down on the Tuscany coast.

 

Started it up to make sure the float chamber was full. To make it a fair comparison with the old needle valve.
Yes there was a lot less fuel in there once I pulled the floats out..
So raised the float about 1mm.
Drove it and it was just as bad...
Started it again decided to check the timing..
Could hear crackles of sparks around the distributor cap, a sign the points were opening at a stupid angle relative to the distributor body.
Turns out the points had rapidly closed up recently, so the timing has retarded about 10 degrees...

The follower had worn.. maybe because its running on this ..

That was OK with an Accuspark magnet ring but really a bit rough for points, but I think it has worn out more..
Found a better distributor driveshaft with weights that moved properly, swapped it over. Made sure the drive dog was not put on180 degrees out, checked by pulling the rocker cover off and lining up number 3 on the rotor arm.

Its back to normal now...
Still goes lean but the timing is right..
When you floor it in any gear it goes.. like a 1641.

 

"You know the engine's in the back on these" is another favourite. Well, f- me, who knew?

Do you feel your chi much improved after getting rid of the tat?

 

Do you know you can undo 4 bolts........?

 

The £100 is always nice but the tat you bring home and put away is always worse quality tat than the load you started out with because all the better tat has been sold.

 

Took her for a spin in the sunshine then when it was a tad cooler, fitted a leisure battery and Snotty's recommended battery clamp.

Played with the timing on my £20 SVDA find, it does seem to be bit better in the mid range than my old 009 need to check my points next.

 

Just chuck it all in the skip anyway and cut out the middleman/woman. You'll have chi wafting everywhere.

 

Got my Ebay HXs fitted and all back together. Bit hot today for this malarkey so when I found I have a bit of a HX/head leak I gave up for the day. Hopefully a slight undo/retighten will sort if, I don't fancy taking it all apart again.

 

Yes still it was an opportunity to meet people you never would meet again.

 

Cooked, sat, chilled, generally camped in it.

I asked my daughter for something (can't remember what... age y'know) and she said "we have some at home", meani g back in the camper...

Ooh happy days.

 

She is programmed correctly

Do your kids speak Italian/bilingual?

 

beach trips.... convex mirrors fitted, absolute game changing

Sent from my ELE-L09 using Tapatalk

 

Heat exchangers are the bane of a type 4.
Copper gaskets essential the thicker the better.
You probably don't any additional advice from me

Except over tightening can pull out the exhaust studs and sorry if it is a bit like telling your grandma how to suck eggs.

 

Sell as much of the good tat.....errr stuff for as much as you want/can, the slow moving stuff sell for "anything "to get rid and any stuff that then doesn't sell after that....leave in the skip at the site. Clean start next time!

 

No worries. I was just filling in the thread rather than looking for advice because actually doing something to my bus has become a rare thing!
I don't usually have much trouble. I deliberately didn't over-tighten them to the heads though so I might have under-done it. Usually loosening them off then re-tightening rather than just swinging on the spanner does the job. It's very difficult to helicoil Type-4 exhaust studs being up a hole as it were so I'm not keen on having to do that. I had an extension for the tap but no idea where it went and IIRC the insert/winding up tool doesn't fit in there either.
I did file them level with a huge file which I've taken to doing recently with success. Tomorrow is another day.

 

Surely the answer is just to fit a type 1 ?