Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by top banana racing, Aug 27, 2015.
Repaired one end of the tow bar mounting
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Got closer to being able to worry..
More wires to make the dials move and some switches for those holes next..
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Sure you got enough gauges there fella
Makes my weekend job of fitting of a single extra gauge - a voltmeter - look small potatoes
I didn’t want to cut the dash as it’s so unmolested so used the speaker holes to mount the pod and run the wires.
Just got to find a retro voltmeter now.
The gauge in the picture was just to make sure everything worked and is from my motorbike.
If you use something like wire off an old pair of headphones, you will get maybe 4 cores in a single thin cable which will look even tidier. Voltages and currents will be low enough that almost any wire will cope.
I decided to check on my Goodridge 200 fuel hose. So far I have had it on the bus for about 22 months.
I took off a section between the shutoff solenoid and a section of copper brake hose used to route the line through the firewall. This is a hot location for fuel hose as its at the hot end of the heat exchanger.
The hose had lost some of its initial plasticity, where it was clamped to the copper pipe it had stuck so it took some twisting to break its grip.
The inner nitrile rubber was still elastic, the end had not started cracking like rubber hoses often do.
As an experiment I decided to try to melt or burn the fabric layer that sits between the stainless braid layers. The fibres glowed red hot, did not melt or burst into flames. It looks like Kevlar colour.. yellowish white.
So I cleaned up the end of the hose - hairy stainless braid and put it back on the bus.
I did the Bug's external oil cooler with Goodridge hose and fittings. Wasn't cheap, but I might be tempted to do the fuel lines on the Bus with this stuff next time. Just need to save up, but I was very impressed. PS you won't approve Mike, the Bug isn't exactly stock This was a work in progress shot.
ReFixed the fuel gauge...
It was only reading 1/4 no matter how full the tank.
I had put the sender in so it was hitting the side of the tank.
Turned it and hey presto... The float can move it works.
Mine isnt particularly stock either. The near side rocker cover is partly obscured by hoses.
Today was day.
Removed the rear, long gearshift rod to replace the bushes, easy job to do one thinks..yes, removing it found three bushes and two rubber gaiters.
The old bushes, the thinner ones had damage to them, possibly from the PO whilst the larger, original VW one was ditched in grease and the spring bent.
I already had two Wolfsberg West bushes I'd bought earlier and in my haste (hindsight is wonderful) I bought a reproduction front one from JK...enuff said.
The WW ones fit a treat, not so the bloody JK one, the dimples wouldn't line up & snap into place no matter what, it looked like the diameter was slightly small even when prised open to try and get it fit. In the end I managed to misshape it beyond it fitting
Luckily the genuine one cleaned up okay and fit a treat using the spring from the JK one.
All back together and lubed up smooth
Moral, know bloody well better!
The repro shuttlecocks are awful. Interesting that WW do decent ones.
Plucked up the courage to put the oil in - no leaks yet from the newly fitted oil strainer.
Fitted a Magic Fandango to sort my fuel gauge.
Sanded all my plywood door cards and panels and gave them a coat of thinned down varnish to waterproof them - needs another coat.
The small rearward ones yes, the front was unbranded.
Luckily the original one rebuilt okay, the difference is great, well worth the hassle.
I might do a JK review on the poor one
Arrived in boatyard in bus.
Petrol smell... poked around. Fuel hose dripping at tank spigot- The horizontal part of outlet had rusted off way back, become a stump, hose clamped on stump.
Worked OK for 10 years then it loosened slightly over the weekend.
Only change recently being very hot weather..
So I tightened the clamp , its stopped dripping now... and ordered a new fuel tank spigot. And now I will have to find a jerry can or similar to store fuel in when I empty the fuel tank. And drive it to lower the level. It would have to happen on a full tank..
This might help, might not, but I found the easier way to empty the tank was to connect a Jerry xsb via longer hose to the output of the electronic pump and then energize the pump, it wasn't at all messy and no crawling under the Bus.
Only works if you have an electronic fuel pump, of course.
Took him for an MOT (I know it's not "necessary" but I'm happy for another set of eyes to be looking around)
Handed over the keys, and reiterated that, as discussed when booking it in, the brake calipers might be binding a bit so could they be freed up if necessary?; and that the front nearside wheel bearing was wobbly and rough so I'd nipped it up a bit as a temp fix, but there was a new wheel bearing ready to replace it in the cab and I'd appreciate them doing that.
So I check the MOT website to see if we were good to go as I'd not had a phone call:
Apparently the nearside wheel bearing is a bit rough.
Why not fix it first as I'd asked for it to be done, and THEN do the MOT???
I wouldn’t worry too much. I think a lot of MoT testers do this to keep the DVSA off their back.
If their pass rate is too high they might be perceived as too lenient.
I suspect they’ll replace your wheel bearing as you requested and pass it.
As long as you only get charged for one test, all will be good and you wouldn’t have known about if it weren’t for the ability to remotely check.
This^, they should charge to replace the bearing, but the retest should be free. No one is going to worry about a wheel bearing replacement on an MOT record on an older vehicle.
Ha, yes fair point. I'm just a bit miffed as it hasn't had the big red FAIL in my ownership, and I knew what needed doing. Should've done it myself beforehand, (I watched many-a-youtube video on the subject) but got scared about taking the brake caliper off
Anyhow, it's all good now as we've got a PASS! Happy Days.
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