And back to the beginning.... New clutch - have you adjusted the cable since? New clutch will be thicker, you may meed to adjust the cable. Press the clutch pedal with your hand. If there it more than 1" easy press before the pedal gets heavy, tighten the cable until there is 1". You replaced some bushes. You must have had the front part of the the selector shaft off. Are you sure you got that pinch bolt lined up right and fully tightened?
something about timing jumping about/only being accurate to within 5 degrees, whereas 009 are accurate to 2 degrees. That is a poorly written summary by me!
That makes no sense. The timing should be rock-solid. The “accuracy” will depend on how they’ve set it up. Odd.
OP: sorry for thread hijack 123 distributor info is all on this thread now: https://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/ignition-123-bulk-buy-vw-jim-facebook.88125/page-5
Just been under the van to check both pinch bolts are correctly lined up and tight and they are. Fitted a new club able at same time as the new clutch, adjustment seems fine but I will re check.
Well, that's not my experience. The 123 doesn't try and keep dwell constant by varying the timing. It just controls the "charging current" to the coil, which has nothing to do with timing. The spark balancing will vary timing on a cylinder-by-cylinder basis (as I understand it), but if your strobe is just connected to one cylinder that compensation should be constant, so I can't see how it can move around. Mine's rock solid. I wouldn't recommended getting the tunable one unless you've got a dyno or rolling road in the garage. How would you measure the results of any tweaks? In my experience, a boggo 123 works just fine. Certainly better than a mass of rotating bobweights and springs.
From observation rather than ownership, every 123 equipped engine I've come across is super smooth running at idle and through the revs. Alstrup is professional and scientific about these things, he's no spotty youth, so what he says is puzzling. Have of you tried your gun on the king lead?
Lol. I’m not trying to sell the things. I’ve just had one for about 10 years, and it’s worked faultlessly (that may be tempting fate...)
Select first gear at the shifter. Engine stoppred Reach under the bus try pushing the gearbox coupler back. If it clicks into first then you have possibly failed to set the pinch bolts in the centre of their respective holes. The hole on the gearbox change shaft is dished and you can do up the pointed bolt so it is not quite centred. Then it jumps to the centre and ends up loose. Also the collar on the shift coupler can rotate against the cage making left/right slop. When all else fails, nose cone donut ...
The puzzle is that it worked when the bushes were worn. One would think that tightening up the slop with new bushes would result in more movement at the gearbox end, not less?
As you have tried everything else When in neutral is the the gearstick in the middle of the hole in the floor? When I got mine It use to change but wasn’t great I found out later that there are 2 different lengths of the shift rod, i drilled a new hole 10mm back and that sorted it.
Well “It’s an new dawn” “It’s a new day” “It’s a new life - for me” “And I’m feeling good” hmmm think there is a song in there somewhere!! So it’s off to work I go.....day 3 of “1st gear.......where are you? First job check clutch cable adjustment.......
I had to do this when I changed from a type-1 engine and box to type-4. But I did it 4 years later, it was ok in the meantime.
