I didn't think of that, obvious now! No oil in the followers, in a kind of hurry... Heaving the case together, starting without any exhaust.. I wonder if he torqued the heads in ye olde pattern...
I bet met a chap at a show once who was a lifelong VW campervan lover. Had a succession of them, including an air-cooled T25 he said he and his mates got so good at changing hydraulic lifters they eventually could do it by feel.
He is! But... Hey @jameswick89 you'd save yourself going back over everything twice if you posted what you were going to do next and asked if there was anything to look out for.
Yeah I used the bentley for the torque and pattern, the lifter came in a little plastic tube with oil in them but I guess the oil was to stop rust rather than filling them. Atleast the rain cant get to the parts now which was my biggest worry I can take my time now
Were they advertised as pre-filled? If they were I'd leave them and see what happens. Someone here will know more about the likelihood of that. I'm not that familiar with hydro lifter replacing... I had one in my first bus but that was s long time ago.
Are you running the Fuel Injection system, I cant remember whether you are or not. If so, check all of the vacuum hoses for leaks especially from the pressure regulator on the return fuel line out of sight. When our westy behaves like yours, its always that hose but all of them can give the same symptoms. When we have good vac lines, the motor starts really well and idles spot on.
I wouldn’t bother taking the lifters out, the engine starts and runs, they’ll be full of oil now even if they weren’t before. But you do need to check the preload. If you’re not sure how to do it follow one of the YouTube guides for solid lifters but instead of using a feeler gauge for clearance just screw the adjuster in 1 or 1½ turns. This is for a Type 1 engine but the procedure is just the same for a type 4.
I hope he didn’t tighten the strainer bolt too much; I don’t remember if that’s been mentioned before.
I get the shivers every time someone mentions that bolt, especially given my tendency to over tighten stuff.
Yeah I am running standard FI I will check the hoses again, before it died on me I did have trouble with them so I taped the ends of alot of them just to help Is the strainer bolt the one underneath? Or the one that holds the domed part that the strainer screws into, because I do have a leak form that one I just assumed it was because I didnt use the sealant on it?
I didn't crack the case (that had already been done for me.. even found the bit of case floating around the bottom of the case.. but I did shear that strainer bolt due to a previous owners fix.. Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
Crush washer obtained well tomorrow, As I'm going to have to drain all the oil out anyone recommend oil whilst I'm at it
.. Halfords Classic in a green tin will do fine ... and get ready for abuse... Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
A crush washer should have been in the gasket set, but I guess you didn’t buy a gasket set. It shouldn’t need sealant; there’s a gasket above the strainer and one below, if it leaks make sure the plate is flat and the gaskets are new. DON’T over-tighten the strainer bolt/nut to try to stop a leak, it’s only 13Nm (9lb/ft).
That was so help wow thank you none of those are leaking thankful but there is a bolt on the side which holds the strainer nut which is
That one should have had sealant under the bolt head but don’t try to remove unless you slacken the strainer bolt first. Unless it’s a bad leak I’d probably live with it and I doubt if that will be the only leak.