T1 engine rebuild

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Borninabug, Aug 28, 2014.

  1. Little more done
    Pump pedestal
    Filler baffle
    Oil pum in
    One piston installed
    Slow and steady
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    MorkC68 likes this.
  2. Easy does it. She's coming together. I can almost here is purring now.
     
  3. I'm not getting any proper time on this. I just give it ten minutes after walking the dogs or I have to "go and look for something in the garage". I need to spend some proper time cleaning the pots and the heads next
     
  4. Like you Lathe!!.....I see you have a couple of 'Mics'....at first glance I thought they were hanging on the lead screw!!??!
    Tony
     
  5. The lathe was "rescued from a stable block at a school"
    The mics are Only part of the collection the good stuff is boxed. All my dads just kept at mine due to apparently having the space and more reason to use it. I'm a quite lucky he still sees old workmates that have nearly every tool imaginable and one ask and it's available.
     
    Bhubesi likes this.
  6. What is the Lathe , a Boxford? They were standard school issue when I was there.
    Tony
     
  7. No it's made I tiwan don't remember the name and was originally owned by a guy who made miniature trains powered by Honda units for commercial use. I ended up with a load of his tools when he passed away
     
  8. Small things make me happy. I needed a gasket for the oil filler. You don't get one in a kit. They are less than £2 from heritage but I'm sure I've seen one somewhere. I have a tin of gaskets and seals for vws. I don't know where they came from but they are mainly nos Vw I found this and dropped it into place probably 40 years after it was produced
    [​IMG]
     
    paradox, Paul Weeding and cunny44 like this.
  9. To shim or not to shim. I started cleaning the cylinders earlier and discovered 1mm shims. These were installed by Tes on a recon I seized then swapped the head barrels and piston onto my og 1500 block many years ago. Should I put them back on or leave them off
     
  10. I you are going to use barrels with shims always leave them on if they are being fitted to the original case. If it is another case then you have to make sure that the pistons run in the same place.
     
    Borninabug likes this.
  11. You're gonna have to check the deck height of the piston without it fitted, and really the cc of the cylinder heads

    Basically the TES block would've been decked or the case centre refaced... so it would've required barrel spacers to correct the deck height
     
    Borninabug likes this.
  12. So
    fit a barrel
    Check deck height
    Cc the head I've got a piece of Perspex and a syringe

    What will tell me if I need to fit the shim or not
     
  13. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Deck height and/or CR.
     
  14. Minimum deck height is 1.20mm and a max of 2.00mm

    Deck height, bore, stroke, and head cc will give you your compression ratio.. Google engine calculator, there should be a link for the cb performance site...
     
    Borninabug likes this.
  15. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

  16. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Same one plonked on a different web page. ;)
     
    Paul Weeding likes this.
  17. Deck height without shim is 1.96mm so without it is
     
  18. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Because your engine originated from a big engine refurbisher, it's likely the heads have been machined too so you really need to do the cc'ing too. Normally around 50cc. Disc on the outer shoulder if it's still there. If not that explains the large deck height when you have the shims fitted.
     
    Borninabug likes this.
  19. I'll have to check.
    The heads might be my og 1500 sp ones or some I picked up when I was about 16 and building the car for the first time. 25 years ago.
    I bought a recon or it was a pressy and it was bought outright. I kept the 1500 block. About 20 years ago. Then five years later I seized it on top of Bodmin moor. I bought a scrap motor and got home and stopped the Tes engine. A big end had gone round and there were two halves on one side inside the con rod. I simply built one good motor out of the bits of the two I had. That was fifteen years ago and I was using the car daily. I haven't used it since apart from about twenty miles and two mots
    It is like triggers brush but will drive again

    I can't remember if it was the Tes heads or my og ones that went on it all those years ago
     
    zed likes this.
  20. It is not the deck height that you need to worry about it is the wear in the cylinder. You need to check that the piston is running in the same position, if it is not you can break the rings. To check this. Fit the piston in the bore, you only need the top ring fitted. With the piston in the bottom of the cylinder fit it to the con rod and push the barrel home and bolt it down, turn the engine until the piston is half way down the bore and then put some Blue around the top 15mm or so of the cylinder, turn the engine over until you get a clear line somewhere around the cylinder, this will show you where the top, ring stops in the cylinder. This must be in the same place as the wear mark at the top of the barrel. Measure the difference and shim or machine to get it right. Put a spare piston pin in your lathe and reduce the diameter a little, makes it a lot quicker to do this. New barrels and pistons might be easier. Robert
     
    Borninabug likes this.

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