I know it's not a resto but I'm pulling and tearing down my t1 motor from my bug. It well goosed with 96 thou of end float. It's the original motor into 68 bug. The process and problems may be of interest to some of you. Stating pics First two minor things to sort are the drain on the breather has "disappeared" and the thermostat has "gone". I don't know how or where as I'm the only person who has worked on this on this engine since 1988. This is to be a budget rebuild so anybody got any of these please let me know.
96 thou? 0.1 of an inch? 2.5mm? You might get lucky with the case if it hasn't been bored previously.
Yup 96 thou. Case has been in the family since 1974 so definitely not bored. I'll be making a shim to stop the thrust bearing moving. I'll just see how we go
Now down to a long block and there are no flaps in the fan shroud. Must check dads garage. Only moved out 14 years ago!!!!
Looking to split the case today. Heads barrels and pistons look reusable. They came off a siezed vege motor back in 2002 so should be ok. Barrels are 85.3 mm What does that give me cc???
Case split and suspicions confirmed. The thrust bearing has pounded into the case. A shim will sort it. The flywheel has worn through the main seal to the metal. Pics in daylight tomorrow
The gap can be seen where the bearing moves As paul weeding said the crank has rubbed on the webs of the case Cam and crank don't look too bad so far The dowel on the thrust bearing saddle will need some attention maybe drilling and enlarging as it's pushed sideways and is very loose
Apart from the thrust bearing saddle being 2.4 mm narrower than it should and the dowel damage the case seems good. This was probably caused by the car being driven for many years with a detached clutch cable conduit causing horrendous clutch bounce and banging while moving off in first. If I shim this and replace the main bearings with standard size this should sort the motor as measurements are within tolerances everywhere else. If anybody thinks it's worth boring, (what does this normally cost) opinions and recommended engineers in the north west would be appreciated.
Got the laptop So firstly the dowel peg... I spotted a tip over on VZi recently... Take a type 1 push rod, cut off the hardened end and run a M10 die down the outside of the push rod... drill out the peg hole in the case to 9mm, and using a bottom tap, tap the case to M10... the push rod will screw into the case, and the hole down the inside of the push rod is exactly the right size for the dowel peg... I would install that with some red thread loc... Also cut it off as close as you can without marking the saddle!! Next I would look at getting a line bore... not only has the case been pounded so the thrust bearing has moved, but the saddle that grips the thrust bearing will now be oversize, and very unlikely to be within the book tolerance... So I'd go first or second oversize, but I'd also get the bearing with the 1mm extra thrust... This will reduce the size of the shim that you'll need to use!! Line bores normally run in around £90... I don't know anyone around Liverpool, but you have got the Headshop in Warrington, and they know air cooled engines
Just cleaned one case half. Flash liquid then white spirit and a final hose off and scrub with washing up liquid 20 mins in total.
Cleaned it all up and checked crank and case. Crank is all good and only thrust bearing saddle is mullered on case. Going to machine this ourselves and buy oversized set of bearings just for the thrust bearing.
Got stuck into making the align boring tool today. An mgb gt keeps calling for attention to slow this down. Need to get some more steel. Local supplier didn't have any 90mm or bigger to make the end at the flywheel end
Then plan is to hold the bar in two pieces at each end of the case. One recessed to house the cutter for the thrust bearing saddle before the cut starts. The four rings you see are the beginnings of tool holders. Plan to drive it with a hand drill. Also making a jig with a dial on to set cutters accurately.
You clearly know what a boring bar is and how they work, but how will you assess your saddle sizes once bored?
