I'll measure new valves and cut seats after kids have gone to bed and let you know what I've got! Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Fair enough TBH, I very rarely touch the heads unless I'm doing big valves, and I don't do those very often at the moment!!
@Robert Parry spent days cutting my valve seats. 3 angles? Pah! I bet every stone he has took a turn and the well used old seats were as hard as rock...
I've got a stone based seat grinder... CBA with using it, Neway seat cutters is where it's at these days!!
The ratwell page is a good read ....when I did mine I used the dell book for reference .....it's not an easy thing to do ...I used carbide cutters but when you lap them I found ,the lapping paste cuts both the valve and seat so if you have 3 angles and the sealing one being narrow wears a tiny line in the valve ....I reground the old valves and used these and only the new valves for the very last lap ....
I use Neway cutters, have since 1970. Stones Nah. Always 3 angle, there is no other way. As for heating a cylinder head, well, get it to hot and Type 4 valve seats will fall out, they are not peened over like a type 1 seat so there is nothing to hold them in when you beat ten bells out of the head. Most importantly you have no feel as to how tight the guide is in the head. I use a micrometer on all the guides and refit according to the way they came out. I then fit them with a hammer,cold with oil on them. To make sure they stay in I Knurl the top 15mm of the guide on a lathe. The other way to hold them tight is to turn a small groove about 3mm from the top of the guide and then use a wad punch on the guide boss. If you are machining the heads take at least the same from the bottom fin, as you can see in the picture. Zedders heads had 2 + mm taken of the fins. It will run a bit cooler.
And tonights job will be.... Not quite ported and polished but given a lick and a spit... taken of most of the bumps and sharp edges Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Dab of assembly lube on the collet seems to make it stick long enough to get the spring unwound. That went better than I thought.. Off for steak and chips to celebrate! Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Heads re-rebuilt to take off assembly oil and use just 20/50.. Chambers remeasured ... compression ratio checked . GO..... case face cleaned off nuts and washers in acid to clean...piston sealing faces rubbed down and cleaned.. just pop pistons into cylinders and This one has a chip.. Ah well new ones in the post Better go and tidy up those heat exchangers Mrs Deefer cleaned up nicely yesterday.... she was muttering something about polishing a bird.. I think she said bird anyway Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
New rings arrived after a short break... Got set up to start the day.. Popped the pistons into their cylinders ready for shims Missed a few photo steps busy admiring Mrs Deefers work on gearbox and petrol tank.. The fun we have! Clips on the side of the barrel facing the middle of the case to allow driving pins from the outside apart from cylinder 4 next to oil cooler which goes on first with pin driven from middle towards oil cooler. If you leave a few mm of pin sticking out of the inside of the piston when you start them off it gives you something to locate the con rod onto when your working blind trying to fit them.. then hopefully a good push with your thumb and there in.. otherwise tap them home with a hammer and drift.. I use the 4" extension from a 1/2" drive socket set but it's supposed to be something softer like brass... but the quality of new socket sets means their softish anyway! Don't forget the other circlips to lock them in when put on... Went with Dirko HT for cylinder to case seal both sides of a 1mm shim to get deck height.... Could go with no sealant but my case not too tidy and didn't machine it so didn't want to take the risk. Anyway popped heads on torqued as book say to pattern 12 ft-lb then 23ft-lb. Probably a bit over as torque wrench very quiet clicking at low values Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
Popped on the two base deflector plates Screw nearest the case uses a 5mm screw.. The only two of this size on all the tinware so best keep them separate Moment of panic fitting tinware....Thought I'd missed a plug. Turns out it's a blank end! No idea why.. Stupid place to leave a hole! Got next load of bits out of the box ready for after lunch... Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
Busy day today.. Held back some of the cam lube for the followers Smeared it ober the tops oiled the sides and popped in the case with a bit more oil on top.. Oiled the new elring O rings.. Some go for permatex too .. I'll see how the oil holds after a break in period not too hard to re-do. Push a bit of cloth over the top of a socket and you can stuff into the push rod tube and use it to twist into place to fit.. All done Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
Re built rocker shaft...split in mounting blocks pointing down.. You'll need that for the push rod tube retaining spring later.. bevel face outwards Then fitted new swivel foot tappets onto rebuilt rocker shaft Not enough room to have .15mm gap on full adjustment so fitted spare head washers under rockers to lift them a bit.. Might check geometry later when I find out how and set up properly.. Can I fit shims to push feet over to be in line with valve stems? Fit push rod retaining spring start from right hand side and work across. Make sure springs are pushing end of tube not sitting inside it.. . Fitted some other bits and went to get camping gear to go to Techenders tomorrow to find out how to do stuff property Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
Forgot to say when heads were machined to clean up the sealing faces and have the seats cut to match new guides was told they were vacuum tested for seating valves and as new valves were going in wouldn't need lapping in. Tested this by leaving parafin used to measure chambers in the chambers over night Checked up ports in the morning.. No sign of leakage No laughing at my "porting"..half an hour per port with the sandpaper to get rid of roughness was enough for my bog standard engine I figured! Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
After a great day at Techenders yesterday got home today with added purpose to get on the road... Picked up some ancillaries and tin and started building it up Thermostat and new bellows.. Cleaned up pulley wheel Oil cooler.. Engine mounting brackets Under cylinder tinware.. Held on with string as nothing to fix to yet.. Oil cooler tin with rubber seal.. Fan shroud Don't you hate it when you put things together an realise you haven't gone far enough with the colour Installed and connected flaps after a quick clean to make sure the move freely...and top cylinder tin Make sure flaps are pulled down when connecting wire so the open when bellows expand.. Spring needs spinning to tension it too.. Then painted the bits I missed Tired now ..camping takes it out of you.. Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
Definitely got two notches in my pulley.. Marked em up with a spot of paint.. Ones definitely at TDC and one where you'd expect to see it with degree marker in place at TDC.. Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
Started off tonight by taking off tinware when I found these bits of bracket in the painted pile... So they're back on the oil cooler... Fitted the adapter to the remote oil pressure sensor and stock switch sensor... Bit of taping threads clean.. This would probably be best done before fitting... So did all the rest of the tinware.. Makes it much easier to install screws or 6mm flanged bolts as I went for as I was having such difficulty getting screws out all those months ago... Got lazy now . not even bothering to get this sheared screw out!! Must be enough to hold it all together without it.. Fitted oil filler tube plenty of permatex on there and a new dipstick boot.. I found it easier to fit on oil filler tube first then base of dipstick tube.. And so more tinware to rear and front.. And engine support bar.. Should probably have got alternator on by now but am waiting for the belt... Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
