So.. Back to rockers.. Decided I fancied swivel foot adjusters... Sounded like a good idea This is not a simple swap over. Elephant foot or Porche style seemed to be the popular choice recommended and thanks to @77 Westy I ordered some from Germany And they look like this next to the original Problem then is .. Next to a rocker arm with the tappet installed at approximately the level it is for .15 clearance you can see new ones would hit the arm the foot is bigger than the stem. So the arm need a quick modification They're quite sturdy at the face with a definite lump not adding to arm strength so o took this off with an angle grinder This gets about 1.5mm off so the adjuster goes back far enough but doesn't swivel so you need to bevel the face back with a grinding stone to get..(top one modified bottom one original) This lets the foot articulate like it should.. That's enough to get it to work and I'm not going to go into checking geometry with a dial gauge etc as I don't want to start adjusting push rod length etc but I might add a 15 thou .4mm shim to give me a bit more adjusting room/ clearance around the foot. ....Adding a shim under the pedestal let's the push rod end go down a bit further (relatively) and lifts the rocker arm a bit more at tappet end due to arm ratio.. Next will be sorting solid spacers.. Don't know why opinion is there might be increased side load can't see it if everything else stays the same and the big spring between the two arms doesn't look like it could break up line the clips or wavy washers on other set ups But measured up and both arms on this side when bolted up have a gap of 18.11mm face to face..Americans can buy kits for this but don't seem to be at our regular outlets but standard bushings with a 20mm ID come in 15mm lengths so 1.5mm shim each side should leave .11mm clearance for movement/ expansion (Sintered bronze bushings don't expand as much as aluminium so shouldn't bind... But might start to rattle!) And the end of the stem seems to be just off centre of the tappet threads which is where you want it. I'll have a measure up with the feeler gauge when the "soild spacer" bits arrive...time for work! Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
Home made solid spacer kit in the post... 20x26x15 oil filled bronze bushes, 25no. 0.5 20mm ID shims to pack out and 25 no 0.1 20mm ID shims to close tolerance.. 6no 0.5 shims in and I just get a 0.3 feeler guage in... Couple of 0.1mm shims to keep it tight ish check for free movement and that should do it hopefully! Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Yeah ... should I be worried..?. I permatex ed it on for safety. .. .. One of these http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=360242714937&alt=web Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Unfortunately they're not oil stable... expect around 3 months before it's degraded to the point where it starts leaking
Aye, I've got a small quantity of Viton ones from a supplier in the states... Over 30 sold/used with no reported failures
Oh .. and are they soft enough to get on without undoing the oil stand. . Or I could just make a new gasket I suppose as the new one just on will be stuck on with brown gunk now.. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Quick valve geometry (lite version) today..As I've (possibly) changed geometry by using the swivel foot ones. Just seeing adjuster is in line with valve stem and mid lift and at middle of stem at that point.. Had a look at angles of adjuster to valve stem at closed and fully open.. Looked equally each side of in line with stem Though I should be a bit more accurate so got dial gauge and measured maximum lift by measuring movement of spring retainer..got 7.94mm on the exhaust..Webcam say..7.92mm This is read set up with with no gap (zero lash?) under rocker foot at TDC Close enough so let the stem back up 3.97mm and had a look at alignment Popped another shim under the pedestal, now has a total of 1mm under the pedestal , and did it all again Looks pretty close to in line and in the middle to me. Enough for a standard engine anyway..I hope. Now to clean it all up again as I can see all the bits on it in close up! Checked they all line up just off centre horizontally too and moved a couple of the shims around on my solid spacer set up. No excuses to not get on and finish putting it together now! Carbs..heat exchangers and exhaust.. Any sealant go on the gaskets for these? Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
This maybe a daft question. On your swivel foot adjusters, you haven't got any locknuts on them to stop rotation and going off clearance. Don't swivel adjusters use locknuts? Stock ones do, you can just about make them out here:
Paul (paulandchez) has them on his type 4: Bentley shows them on the pages relevant to adjusting valve clearances too
Thanks for looking out.. just gave them a miss while messing about with adjusting all the time I'll be popping some back on when cleaned up and reset properly.. Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
I got new!... Splashed out.. Are you Fuel Injection? I think you miss out that thick gasket on carb engines to let the manifold warm up...and have the thick one between manifold and carb. Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk
Yea I'm fuel injected. So according to the books and what was previously on the head, I need the thick gasket. Out of interest, why have you had to do so much work on your rocker arms? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
We bought new too! When we did ours we left the locknuts at the top of the threads and tweaked the gaps a couple of times!
Because im a boy..... I fancied swivel foot adjusters.. read it was a good idea and believed it! Not too much really.. probably don't need to check geometry just thought I would to find out.... Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
