Discussion in 'Modified Shizzle' started by Owen Snell, Oct 3, 2015.
Which one? Model number etc?
It's ok found it LMS479
I know the owner.
LB discount then
Could be possible.
Well it works out cheaper for a Wosp one when compared to a gen bosch one
Have a word....
Interesting day on the dyno today. They did a lot of work on the map, although mostly manually whereas I have tended to use the auto tune rather than manual adjustments. After seeing the whole thing, I think auto tune is better. I also got a power run and they set up the fuel at the top end to get the best out of it, which I can't really do on the road.
They are also very conservative on timing and reduced some of the advance I had added at cruising throttle / rpm. Coming home, I noticed the difference immediately in that the head temperature was higher! I'll be increasing these numbers again and watching the temperature change.
The map has always suggested peak torque at around 2,500 rpm. It's actually flat from just below 3,000, which is what it feels like on the road. It drops off below that - probably a combination of the cam, 40 mm ITBs and a ported head mean that the flow velocity is a bit low at low rpms. In any case, it's a really nice engine to drive and revs freely to the top end.
They were not really interested in the dyno trace, I had to ask for it, and they did point out that there is a huge variation between different dynos in terms of power. I wanted to see the curves to see how they related to the driving experience, which is about right.
The keys colours all look the same, which is which?
I'm working on the VE table again now. They tuned the engine on the VE, or 'Base Map' and made all of the changes on there to manipulate the AFR. I had set up the VE table as a fixed reference point and then changing the AFR table changes the AFR directly, leaving the VE table alone. I prefer the way I did it as it's easier for me to understand, so I've already modified the VE table and the ignition timing after finishing up at the RR this afternoon.
I did learn a lot today, I just want to do the tune in a different way.
Red is the wheel HP. The black / dark green is engine HP, blue is torque. On the road, torque noticeably picks up as you get to 3000 rpm and the engine then pulls happily to the red line.
Such different characteristics to mine. I'm trying to take it in.
Come and try it.
I haven't had one on a rolling road without almost immediately changing what they did, or putting it back. It's still good to get some feedback though.
You just have to make use of the time you're paying for to pick their brains.
The problem is that everyone is doing different stuff, so there's no turnkey solution and setup has to be done on a home brew / DIY basis. It takes a lot of time, you just have to imagine how many '000s of engineer hours / '000s of miles are spent mapping a 'new' engine. I have done 2,500 miles of work on this so far, just taken a step back on the map but a step forward in knowledge.
Looking at the timing again this morning. The RR guys took a lot of timing out at lower revs / higher throttle. This is normal logic to avoid pinking, but the point at which they start to add advance is the point at which the torque rises. I might add a bit more advance now and see how it goes.
I've put in more advance at low revs up to about 30% throttle and the engine is immediately smoother and picks up without hesitation.
The torque curve looks nice and useable.
Whats the dip in the torque and HP lines at 1800rpm?
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