SOLD Twin Dellorto DRLA 36 carbs.

Similar things have been done before at TE but you're right - you need to be completely prepared, it's a long way home if there's a problem.

 

I'd ditch the CB linkage and do what @Zed and @Mark Darby have suggested, sell it on the Bay of E and buy a CSP one, it caused me no end of hassle and caused a rather embarrassing popping and banging noise that emanated from my rear end on deceleration

 

The £50 for the wheel thing would be a good start on the price too and someone with buy the hex linkage - nearly covered the cost already. Those hex linkages aren't cheap either with the carb bases and whatnot, I'm surprised they sell any.
Fly in the ointment is Scrooge would then need to replace the filter bases.

 

I have Demos billet ali ones on mine - they were £40 10 years ago. Empi billet equivalent are £170! Holy Moly. Demos didn't last long, they were really excellent and yet really cheap.

 

CB hex linkage are more expensive than a csp bell crank linkage.

My CB performance hex linkage gave me no problems for many many years, however it has become a right pain this last year. Mainly down to a grub screw!

 

The filters come up on the Bay of E reasonably regularly, I bought a set of filters from there for my operation "throw the CB linkage over the fence", still have some bits left somewhere.

 

Get rid, Paul, that's happened to me too, the drop arms work loose and migrate along the bar, more rear end farting ensues as the linkage goes out of balance. Now you've just ruined hours of therapy by reminding me of that incident

The not quite broken down coz the linkage drop arm bar came loose and got stuck in the wrong place incident; it was given the last rites when that happened, I can tell you. It was only the summer season starting up that meant I persevered with the infernal thing for another three or four months.

 

Yeah there will be lots of bits and pieces that you'll need. I'll bring any spare stuff that i have in case any of it will be of use.

Definitely preferable to do it in a garage closer to home than at TE!

 

Indeed it is cheaper, and way better, especially on a Type 1

 

I did look at the CSP Bell Crank linkage thingy.
Eurocarb told me it wouldn't work with my set up : The bellcrank linkage will push the rods outwards from a central point to rotate the spindles - the location balls on your carb levers would not allow for this - it would attempt to push the levers into the throttle stops.
The person who suggested I get it told me that is nonsense.

The main reason i'm persevering with my current CB set up is it always worked fine before.
The CSP one would just introduce other possible problems, like clearing other things in my engine etc etc.

My hex rods were always fine, it was the grub screw in the linkage arm that gave me grief. The linkage arm would shake lose and the carbs would run rough at low revs/on the idle jets. I've sorted the linkage arm so it is holding firmly again, but in the process i've messed the rest of it up!

 

I have a CSP bell crank on the Bug and it's way easier to keep fettled than the CB, trust me.

I can't visualise where it would foul, but I do recall seeing a friend of mine's bell crank fouling on something in their Type 1.

 

Just have a good look at the various twin carb set ups at Techenders and it may sway what throttle linkage you decide to install yours with.

 

Haha, no worries, keep cool, we're only trying to help
Paul's advice is sound
Took me two years to get round to ditching my CB linkage, they're just a ruddy pain to set up! Once set up they're fine, until they wear a bit and start to slip and move out of adjustment.

 

There's a way, there must be as it worked on my type-1 though they were pushing and I prefer to make them pull if possible - not sure why, it just makes more sense to me.

 

Have a look at mine at TE. I just switched the carbs over and have the linkage at the back.

 

That rings a bell but type-1 you can't have the linkage at the back as the fan housing is in the way. I think I swapped the carbs and also moved the levers to the other side of the carbs and it worked out - there are so many possibilities there is always a way.

 

You have to keep both sides in balance, equilibrium must be maintained each side opening and closing equally, it's all very zen, you need good karma, patience and a decent snail meter