SOLD Twin Dellorto DRLA 36 carbs.

I can strip them more if you want so you know, then anyone that may have spares could potentially bring them to TE

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My spare jets disappeared from my van when I visited a garage I'm afraid!

My spares are more gasket/exhaust related.

Did the purchase include velocity stacks? You'll definitely need them!

 

You are welcome to any of this.

 

No! He's the ICT man, but jetting those is weird and goes against normal common sense - for some reason they need huge main jets.

 

If you're stripping the carbs down that far and getting uncharacteristically spendy at the same time, it's worth testing the needle valves. I found they're an Achilles heal on Dells. If they're Viton tipped leave them well alone, otherwise check they're not sticking, or that the tips aren't worn or have a polished ring on them.

If they stick it's not good.

You already have a fuel shut off valve, so that's another worthwhile box ticked.

 

You are right to wait to do it in one order when you know what you have got and whaat you may need
May need: Velocity Stacks, heat rise insulator plates, various jets etc etc

Someone (possibly @Zed ) said these people were cheap for jets
https://www.gsparkplug.com/fuel-oil...s-chokes-components/dellorto-carburettor-jets
These ones are all listed as DHLA jets, but someone knowledgeable may confirm if they use the same jets for DRLA's?

 

Needs 28s.

 

@scrooge95 , send this guy a message when you know what you want. I get all my Dellorto stuff from him. He's usually cheaper and quicker than the usual UK suppliers .

 

I would see what the 30’s are like first before you go spending money.

A good read here on jetting
https://www.aircooled.net/vw-carburetors-jetting-102/

Mainly on IDFs.
DRLAs run a bigger idle than IDFs.
I ran 32’s on my 1916 but also on my 1600.
30’s should have a 125-ish main

 

which guy?

 

Yes it does. You could try the 30's but they are unnecessarily big, there's no gain. My 2l type-1 revved to 6-7000 rpm quite happily through 30's, you won't be starving it of air with 28 and 28 will be better at lower revs.

 

Haha, admittedly I was being a bit tongue in cheek Sorry

Nevertheless, the advice about checking the needle valves before you order fresh parts was sound, it will cost you later if those are worn, and you will have to have the whole lot out again to change them, the needles really are best checked whilst you have the carbs "on the bench", not "on the bus". Besides stuck floats/needles aren't good for your engine.

Similarly, the o-rings on idle screws, cost pennies and are a right pain to change when the carbs are on the Bus. Ask me how I know

 

There are two types of those valves - crude ones like you describe and proper ones.
The proper ones seem to be bullet proof. They have a dual action, there are 2 shoulders on the pin part which moves inside the main bit which then moves up into the valve like the simple ones. Fuel is cut off when the pin is up before the main bit moves. Hard to describe and I'm failing to find a pic or any reference to them on the internet.
Point being setting them up is different than the "normal" ones.

 

Which ones are these, Zed? Plunger removed from barrel to show parts.

 

Simple type. I wonder if maybe mine are some aftermarket thing as I can't find them referenced anywhere. Maybe I'll take my carbs apart to show what I mean. Not today though I've been cleaning the engine bay and my knees hurt.

 

Ok, so those are my worn ones The new ones looked the same, but were Viton tipped.


If you zoom in close enough you can see the wear mark you're looking for @scrooge95

 

Maybe I'm mis-remembering as I see the pin bit is sprung on what I thought was a different thing to mine.





Anyway assuming the bit of float that presses on this sprung plunger is not bent incorrectly, the important thing is to set the float height before the sprung plunger starts to move.