The All New, New "What have you done to your Bay today" thread.

They work ok...and they’re 7 quid

<edit> 12 quid

 

Nothing yet, but I intend to give my interior a good waxing later

 

I started the bus for the first time in two weeks. Took a bit of cranking - 215 rpm, oil pressure 7psi, cylinder heads at 5C , battery dipped to 11volts while cranking. Started after about 20 seconds and then idled at 880 rpm..

Then I turned it around and started picking around the holes in the deformation panel. The hole in the nearside looked OK. The hole in the offside seems to be full of a pile of wet rust, that goes through the missing bottom of the A pillar into the wheel arch.
The damage in both cases is due to the inner panel developing rectangular holes lined up with the chassis members, so when water gets ito the chassis members, it then flooded the deformation panel, running through the bottom of the A pillars and out through the drain holes in the wheel arches (or becoming rust)

So I poked it a bit more and eventually decided instead of patching I would order £500 worth of panels from Schofields instead. There are too many thin bits in the inner panel, and I know that there have been frequent MOT fails on holes within 300mm of the steering box.
The bottom of the A pillar on the other side is also pretty holey so I think its time to do some proper hacking.

So its two outer chassis leg ends, inner panel, deformation panel (brazilian so needs drilling for old bolt positions) , lower A pillar repairs both sides , closing plates for deformation panel. I already have the lower front panel if I decide to be brutal.

Now to find a drill with a narrow chuck to spin a spot weld drill at the bottom of the front panel.

 

Poked and sanded off some drips up the vents...
(pics of before)




It seems i’m much more adept at taking paint off than putting it on!
Might consider Jackson Pollocking it all and flicking a different coloured paint everywhere to disguise my ineptitude.


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Bit of painting...

 

You can guarantee that if you're going to get flaws in paint, it will be somewhere inaccessible...I've got a run, but its staying there.

 

Explain that away at A&E

 

Please don't post any pictures

 

Too true, and likely we’d be the only ones that know it’s there...but...it’s there!!

Doing these vents has 2 equally unappealing aspects.
1. Lying with your head under it is like sitting in a cold box trying to paint the inside of a chimney.
2. Through the light unit is like trying to brush the front teeth of a cow...through its backside!

All with reflective glue-like paint. Why did I choose a pearlescent?!


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Did the other side...



And gave the insides a wire brush and coat of rust treatment ready for a wax oil type stuff..





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I think I would start with a bit of Rustoleum or similar to seal the metal, then waxoyl..

 

Further testing of the foot down variety and with the extra advance it's going better than it has for years...you know - since when I started messing with the timing. lol. It's quieter, smoother, faster. At the end of all those circular shenanigans where mostly for want of 8-28 deg timing the spark was too late, all I'd done is increase the idle timing from about 4 degrees to 8 without retarding it at all other rpm. Oh dear.

 

I cheated and outsourced a fiddly welding job.

Loose hinges on the two long drop side gates.

I removed the drop gates at the weekend and dropped them off today on my way to work.

Once this is done I can think about giving them a coat of paint to match the rest him.

Stirlingmoz

 

Finally got round to changing the oil and filter a job that I've been putting off for far too long.
Noticed interior lighting not working at all. Fuses seem OK so need to trace the loose connection. Probably have to strip the dash.

 

Took off a kick panel to survey the rust. What seems to have happened is that the closing panel on the deformation panel rotted through at the door end. Water then runs in when it rains, fills up the deformation panel and the bottom of the A pillar and the bottom of the wheel arch, then tracks by capilliary action along the join at the bottom of the front panel and also soaks into the rusty mush in front of the kick panel.

Just as well that exactly matches the box of metal from Schofields (apart from the wheel arch, I think I will do that properly another time, I think all it needs is a bit of the skin at the front)
Obviously the joint from the bottom of the kick panel to the inner front panel is also missing in many places.. I am really glad I got a lower half front panel off Schofields at Dubfreeze last Feb too, although the drive through the floods to and from the show is probably responsible for some of the rot.

My bin of rust is already quite heavy and I havent actually removed any substantial bits of metal yet.

 

I've got one had it a while still not connected it up.
Where did you put the camera? Also did you connect it to the reverse switch or just put it to a toggle switch

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I've got one had it a while still not connected it up.
Where did you put the camera? Also did you connect it to the reverse switch or just put it to a toggle switch

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Have you blocked off one of your tail pipes yet?

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There`s also the matter of threading the wiring loom through the rear panel and up into the fusebox , hopefully you`ll do a better job than the bloke who did mine - looks like he tacked the front panels together in situ , threaded the loom through and finally seam welded the lot leading to much melty wiring - cock

 

I haven't but the timing has quietened it down quite a bit.