The All New, New "What have you done to your Bay today" thread.

This one off eBay Steve. It's not what I'd call silent exactly but it does work. I fitted a variable pulse switch to have variable speed control - about 2 quid from China.

 

Good shout for the speed controller. Ebay it is, it's 3" if I recall. I think you forgot link or pic or something, but there's probably only 1 to choose from!

The big market for silent fans appears aimed at the "home grower' who apparently use 4" duct fans.

 

Sorry here's the link
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rule-3-Inline-Engine-Bay-or-Bilge-Blower-12v-Model-140/181640261890
and this is the switch I bought off Amazon
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B0757F2DH9/ref=dp_olp_NEW_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=NEW

 

Thank you sir.
How strange that one doesn't appear in my ebay search. Reassuringly twice the price as my last one. Is that a good sign? Who knows these days!

 

When the price goes up on those Chinese items, it means they are becoming popular - it is a mechanism to ensure sellers get a good price , I suppose.

 

Yesterday we were driving around the back of Cheddar Gorge in the Mendips to get to the campsite. Engine was starting and running perfectly. Oil temps around 90-100C.

And this morning at the campsite. I turned the key to start. The engine fired, ran for a couple of seconds and died. I turned the key again, the engine did the same thing. Next time , I cranked it for 20 seconds , and it fired once than carried on cranking. Repeated, then eventually nothing, except as the cranking speed started to drop, it fired once again.

Put the hookup back on so the batteries were both on charge, connected jump start lead from leisure to starter. Waited a couple of minutes, Cranked. Nothing.

Took out spare pre-timed points distributor. Swapped it with the electronic one. And it started immediately first turn of the key .

That must be about the fourth electronic points replacement that has failed on my bus.

 

There must be something killing them, Mike, but what? Heat?

 

Covid?

 

Electronic points failed? Which ones do you have?

I had issues with one particular company, bay ran fine all the way to a friends house, we set off together in convoy to spring camp via some speed humps, second speed hump it cut out and wouldn’t start, changed for spare set as I’d had this happen previously but in rushing to reconnect I did it wrong 50/50 chance & immediately fried the spare set! Went back to mates house scrounged an old 009 with mechanical points and with the help of the AA we swapped the whole distributor & got to spring camp before dark

Problem is I can’t recall which manufacturers kept failing but there was another in the same price bracket which I bought instead & after those went in I never had an issue!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

1. Cheap
2. Chinese

 

What the Chinese find Mike's Bus, in the dead of night, break into the noisy cupboard and sabotage his Accuspark module? I just don't buy it

 

No, they’re pre-sabotaged at the factory.

 

I think the waveforms I have seen on my scopemeter with various electronic modules I have checked at TE and on my own bus have been so similar, I think theres only one source of supply and a supply of manufacturer specific stickers.

I havent yet worked out what the magic phrase is for Aliexpress that describes an electronic points distributor module is. I can find coil packs, distributors, sports bras, and magnets for fuel lines all with a search for 'electronic points module'.

One day I will find the words and then I will be able to go into business.

So far from my partial schematic, it becomes completely clear why if you cross the beams, the module expires - its because the design has one transistor on the black wire cable which is switched on by voltage on the red wire cable, then the internal electronics powers up and disables it. So the first thing it does is fire the coil (right way round) then disable, or short the 12 volt supply (wrong way round) ...
A small redesign and that would stop happening. But then the world market for the modules would reduce by about 75%.... .


Back on my problem - I think the issue is heat plus a particular coil I always use, which is not a Bosch but something that was on the bus 10 years that seems to work as a coil more reliably than random Bosch coils, both new and swap meet grades.

Before I rush off buying new ignition components ..

• Test my coil collection

• Check where the rotor arm points when the magnet ring fires using another 'dodgy' electronic module - a theory is that it isnt pointing quite in the right direction so there is a bigger gap and so the voltage at the coil has to be higher to fire the plug. The clue to this is that the vacuum canister is definitely in a different position on the points distributor and the electronic distributor for the same timing on a Bosch 205 style distributor.
  
• Look at my ST microelectronics IGBT based points replacement chip and see if I can concoct a simple driver circuit.

 

I assume this coil is a 3 ohm one?

 

Try ‘electronic distributor module’.

 

123

 

Finished off Tilly's brake calipers, refitted, bled. New anti squeal shims new brake pad springs and pins.
Into the noisy cupboard new air filter, new contacts, and the worst job was removing the old foam seal around the tin ware.
It almost fell apart left lots all of flaky crumble bits, my neighbours thought i had gone OTT hoovering out the engine bay.
Just the oil and filter today then pack the girl ready for what seems like a cool damp few days in Woodhill Park East Runton on the Norfolk coast.

 

I get 990 items.. not one of them seems to be appropriate. Most of them are related to other searches I have made in the past , which bias the results..

But eventually alongside the FAJS40 carb kits for $399 , there it is :


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000825829860.html?spm=2114.12010615.8148356.6.7e6433a9MO10FA


Back on track I note that my battery voltages sit around 14.1-14.2 volts when the engine is running at speed. And while I have Accuspark units, Powerspark state a maximum of 14.2 volts..

 

That could well be it might, Mike. As you know from experience most transistors don't like being outside their safe operating area. Do you know if it's the same transistor in both modules?

 

14.2V max doesn’t seem a good margin for something that could potentially hit 14.5V, depending on your regulator.