Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by top banana racing, Aug 27, 2015.
Put the 122 main jets back in to see if the 130's were contributing to the popping on over run.
Got to love imperial sizes....after searching for the right size spanners to work on the Herald, found 10,11 and 13mm covered most things so far !
Had a hella-vagoodtime re-fitting gennie Hella, amber indicator lenses in favour of the the clear jobs which were cool when I first stuck 'em on in the early noughties. Also swapped out the rusty, generic old driving lamps for a pair of Hella 160 fogs which I'd forgotten I had and recently unearthed in the depths of the parents garage .
Thinking of running the fog lamps as DRLs in an attempt to reduce the number of ****tards who insist on pulling out in front without apparently noticing I'm there .
Ours is bright 0range and we have the same problem, it's not exactly hard to miss you wouldn't have thought
I like to keep up with them, special mention for those who think oo slow bus , must pull out, then drive slower than I was going. I have all LED side (quite bright) and tail lights total drain 1.6 amps so I can leave them on.
I just overtake them now. That did used to annoy me though.
Camping at the moment
Did a rebuild on the carbs over the winter, my mate was convinced I was under jetted, he offered me the 130's to try, I thought why not. The 122's were done on a rolling road by the PO, I can't say I noticed a power increase, but it's the one thing that has changed between last summer when I am convinced it wasn't doing it very much, to what you refer to as embarrassing levels of popping.
In the interests of doing things properly, the first step is to go back to 122's.
As @lowie will testify it was popping when we revved it to do the timing, I think that has stopped but it needs to be driven to be more certain.
My theory is the bigger jets are leaving unburnt fuel in the cylinders that is being pushed into the exhaust and causing the popping. Well that's my current theory, anyway.
Just to add it doesn't pop at idle and if you drive it so that you avoid the mains circuit, it doesn't seem to do it either. Of course there's seems to be many causes of popping, I am just trying to reduce the number of variables involved.
I'm fast coming to the conclusion that an exhaust that can handle increased size and revs of an engine that's pumping perhaps twice stock is too big the rest of the time. I'm going to block one of my tailpipes just for giggles and see what happens...when I can devise a way that won't spoil it or fire potatoes across the carriageway.
A cut off section of an aerosol can and a hose clamp maybe?
Started raining, so bought some new posh wipers.
Quite extreme if its so rich it is burning very slowly .
Or is it plug fouling caused by being rich leading to misfire.
Maybe check float levels and fuel leaks on the carburettors too.
Something else is happening , a slightly different size on a carburettor jet should not be that bad.
Mine pops because its so lean when you engine brake. Over 20:1 AFR shows up.
Could be several things, Mike. But my first port of call is put it all back to what it was before it was popping, I am eliminating variables.
One float is new, the other checked out ok, new tipped needles were installed, it's possible the levels are wrong but they measured ok when they were rebuilt.
Edit, another data point has just popped into my head. After the rebuild, my neighbour commented he thought the Bus smelled rich on test, he's a proper old school chap with an engineering background, built his own Cobra before SVA days, said he never smelt it running rich before the carb rebuild
You are right to change back then work from there.
I expect the plugs will show black too if its rich.
Filled ‘er up, ready for the weekend.
Doing ours tomorrow after work
Friday morning for us, checked the oil though and checked what supplies we need
I have done neither of those things!
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