I used the D-bolt but a standard hex head would probably be better. The spade connector is there for the solenoid if that's what you mean and the alternator and battery cables fit on the stud but I had to extend the other cables to reach. Simple enough but it’s not drop one motor and bolt up the new.
Still weighing up my options here. Looks like the removal of the old bush doesn’t always go easy with tap and die. if I go self supporting starter is it ok to leave the old bush in place, or is there a chance it could vibrate out?
That’s one of the oddities - there’s a receipt from the previous owner and he paid £60 to have the Bosch starter refurbed 2 months before I bought his bus. I guess he had the same problem but the refurbishment didn’t fix the issue. so could be they with botched the refurb or it’s just the bush. For £2 I should really attempt a bush swap. it’s the contortions that’s putting me off and the potential to drop it into the bell housing
Maybe you have a poor connection somewhere that gets hot, expands a bit and then makes better connection. There's a lot more to operating a starter than the starter.
Looking interesting here. Two witnesses marks on starter line up with debris in starter motor orifice- fair chance of misalignment here? I didn’t fit this, so not my crap. Possible cheap fix…
I had trouble with my first bus where someone had replaced the stud for the starter with an undersize bolt so getting it properly aligned was nigh on impossible. I simply replaced with a bigger bolt and it was fixed. Replacing that bush if it's worn also makes a world of difference. As you state that it does sometimes spin fast I really would be looking at the power supply though.
that metal debris in the orifice must be misaligning the motor though. You can see it’s impression on the SM. The motor is upside down in the photo so it would fit with debris perfectly. Hopefully just need to clean out an refit
Some of your debris looks like an old bush? Could be a red herring if the last blokey dropped it in while changing it. That's fairly harmless as they are extremely weak and crumbly.
On your bell housing photo it does look like the starter was tight to the bell housing at 4-5 o'clock and not tight on the opposite side so something it going on. That would put the spindle/bush at the other end ( part of the starter) out of alignment. That bush also never gets lubricated and is often way too dry. there is a cap over it but it's not easy to lubricate it when it's already gummed up with toffee that was once lubricant. At least the one in the bell housing gets lube from one's leaking flywheel seal...
this was my thought - i left mine in place when i fitted my wasp high torque starter (doesn't need a bush either). done prob 10k miles since, no issues.
What was the reason for going for the Wosp Rob? Both the Powerlite and Wosp are based on the Denso 1.4kW motor/gear with an adaptor. I went with the Powerlite because it’s cheaper and I’ve used one on my V8 MGB for several years with 100% reliability.