We had a high torque SM on the wbx 2.1 and it was a fabulous bit of kit. Way better than the stock offering with higher cranking speeds for less juice out of the battery. Self supporting too, so no oilite bush to fiddle with. Great upgrade @Little Nellie and an investment regardless of the condition of your current battery
I have the same problem, just charged ye olde always faithful battery but it it barely turned the engine. Gave it 20 mins, tested the resting voltage - 12.4V - battery has had it I'd say. I should have looked after it as it was no better charged up than before despite "needing" to be charged.
fairly convinced it’s not the battery, as over 3 years the issue is not getting worse as a battery condition would. I’ve also had the issue with 12.9V measured when I’d just charged the battery also don’t think it’s metal on metal issue from cold start as it can do it from cold start and from hot Petrol station start
If you don’t have one already it would be worth fitting a starter relay to take the load off the ignition switch – the Powerlite pull-in current is more than 40amps.
A battery can show a decent voltage at rest but drop well below 12 volts when a load is applied to it. That’s why Mike was telling you to check the voltage whilst someone is cranking the engine. It may well not be your problem but it’s an easy test to eliminate the battery
I’ll have a look at voltage while cranking. Probably best to disconnect the coil HT lead so it’ll just spin over without starting. few searches suggest 15s crank and voltage should be greater than 9.6V
I had charged it with a 10A Ctek charger, it took only a few hours to go through it's routine. I'm doing it again having selected the reconditioning option and it's been in absorption for longer than it took to go through the whole cycle the first time - not got to the reconditioning phase yet. It's almost as if having selected recondition it's trying harder! It's a calcium battery - bought from Halfords without thinking/knowing the difference. Some Web advice says they need 16v or you'll never fully charge them. Other web advice says use the normal lead acid settings. Do you have any experience of calcium batteries? PS - I let the stove go out today - what a difference a day makes! PPS - Tesco extra thick double cream doesn't dissolve in your coffee properly.
That doesn't mean it's good. As above, until you put a load on it (eg headlights), the voltage doesn't mean much. Get your jump leads out and jump it from another car.
Hmmm - mine is still absorbing - pretty weird after charging it only 2 days ago and not using it other than for a quick failed attempt to start the van.
I’d have to invest in quality jump leads. The ones I’ve got heat up like your nan’s 1970 fire. Might invest though or it’ll end up like the end of Carry on Screaming
And the result of Crankingstine’s Monster is as per photo. So voltage before cranking 12.8V. While attempting to crank initially it did it’s extremely low crank speed trick and measured as low as 9.6V, when it eventually started to spin a little it was about 11.5V. But low sticking point as per photo. At rest after experiment up to 12.6V
I don't I'm afraid Zed! Hopefully the higher voltage during the recon phase gives it a bit of a boost. I'd read sometime ago about these fitted to Ford was it? as standard and then owners basically having to stay with that tech for replacement as the electronics were designed to suit. That was enough for me to not bother looking further tbh. Cream in the coffee! Living the dream up there mate
