I actually used my 300mm Vernier as a square. Bolt together almost tight, move square round and check/adjust the gap. Nothing very clever, but intially I just slapped it together and it was as wobbly as a wobbly thing. Balanced? Who knows but the fan and pulley are concentric as can be seen running.
Whilst I wait for the paint to dry on the tinware and pulley I checked some other bits including my alternator (55amp) to starter wiring, ooops. Luckily I found the damage above the red tape before any spark flew, but my question is what size and type of wire? The wiring diagram book says red/white cable 6mmsq. The existing is red/black and looks thicker than 6mmsq. I have new thin wall 6mmsq available, but is 6mmsq the right size and is thin wall OK to use here? Thanks as ever.
6mm2 is better than 4mm2 is better than 2.5 and so on.. the larger size will heat up less and waste less power with the alternator output current, also fittings on the wire for that size are less likely to heat up and oxidise.. It is in a hot place. The repair is because the grommet was not placed in the hole in the metal cover and the thick insulation shorted. I wouldnt use thinwall, VW would have used it if it was sensible where there is heat and vibration.. As an alternative I would consider removing the tape and using a couple of layers of heatshrink to preserve the wire and its colour. And at least a new grommet.
Cheers Mike. I'm changing the wire completely as the existing insulation is crispy. I've found an eBay seller that does the outer covering and happy to buy new cable. My wiring diagram book suggests that the existing knackerd stuff isn't the original so I'll buy thick wall cable and either go 6mmsq or maybe a tad thicker. New grommets all round as well I think.
If you’re replacing it you could use the thin wall & sleeve it. The flexible conduit is good this type of stuff
Thanks for the link, the sleeve I found is this one....similar colour as original:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heat-Res...624554&hash=item27e3a0f7b1:g:3z0AAOSwPZBZ1Lgm I might buy some thicker wire as my 6mmsq thinwall is only rated at 50amp so I may go for 10mmsq. I might go thick wall, but need to find somewhere that sells thick wall as 12voltplanet only seem to do thin wall rated to 105°c and I'm not sure if that is enough? Edit: just checked on another site and found that the standard cable is only rated to 70°c....now confused
Original is thickwall, but that was before thinwall was invented. 10mm thinwall with a heat resistant sheath sounds a good idea to me, it gets hot down there and the cable often ends up a bit charred. Thickwall from AES if you want it. https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/66/category/11
Thanks guys. I'm going to order some thin wall 10mmsq due to heat spec and sheath on top as well. Will also buy some grommets - cheese.... sorry couldn't resist!
When I needed an alternator and had 3 broken ones to make one out of, they all had melted wiring looms. I don't think it would hurt to up the spec a bit, but it does also depend on good connections.
Is anything easy in a camper?.....anybody know who stocks the grommets that hold the wires from the alternator through the tinware.
It’s p/n 021 971 907A, Brickwerks has them. https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/wiring-grommet-t3-lt-caddy-t4-33x9.html
I seem to remember that somebody was recently looking for flywheel shims on here and may have found a source, as I'm having difficulty finding shims in the shops or that thread to say where they found them. I have remeasured mine and would like to find a 0.38mm shim for my 2ltr type 4 if possible. Any pointers gratefully received. Ta Edit:- I've just found the thread I was looking for and hopefully @MorkC68 still has a 0.38 left.
It was me I bought MorkC68 and Pauls. I found it useful to have a selection. If you PM me I'll send them to you. Trevor
How stiff is too stiff? With spark plugs out, no seals yet either end and oil pump in but no gears or plate fitted, how easy should it be to turn the engine over with the fan? Going round the 360° it turns by hand but some bits are easy and some quite hard. I'm guessing position of the pistons are having an effect but just wanted to make sure before I merrily carry on. Could it be that because of the pause in work due to my op, it has tightened up and will loosen on start up and run in?
If the rockers are on, hard bits of turning could be squashing the springs on the valves. Ours have both been quite quite hard to hand turn once built up. Freshly honed barrels and new rings probably dont help there. Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
Thanks, yes the rockers (hydraulic) are all in so that would explain it - doh, Sunday morning brain.... not up to much. I'm guessing that whilst I don't have oil in the sump, I should not turn it over too often as I'll empty my hydraulic followers?
