I find hot starts fine without phenolic spacers, neither at the head or the carbs, but I do have long CB manifolds.
Lazybones here used CB Performance inlet manifolds, which I believe may be taller than the EMPI ones. I have not tried running the motor without the spacers however, so Im not sure on that aspect.
Think it more likely that neither of you has tried it otherwise. Both should stop the carb boiling, hot manifolds are KNOWN to be helpful to combustion mixture. Both "work". Can't see either way effecting starting because the carb should be protected from excess heat either way. Edit: x posted with Mark. Good guess.
Thing is Steve, I have said a few times that that particular motor could have been built better, a few areas are showing signs & maybe the spacers are one of them. It runs at the moment, leaks slightly, needs the carbs re tuning (remove spacers at the same time) but at the time it was on the spot learning for me. You guided me though it, as did Paul Weeding and a few others. Maybe, when I have some time on my hands, I'll pull the motor and go over it...when I have time as work is getting busier by the day!
Sorry old bean, didn't mean to criticise you personally, just hoping anyone reading's decision to put the spacers there just to make it fit might think again. I hate doing things twice and that's based on doing a lot of things wrong just to get them done. Sods law that simply bolting on a manifold predictably turns into finishing making the manifolds yourself! Seems at every turn something like that happens and it's really annoying when you thought "just bolt this on" and it takes a day of prep! I don't remember, but it's more than likely I've done exactly the same in the past - oooh those are nice gaskety things, I'll use those!
I didn't take it that way to be honest, my reply was tongue in cheek too - having known what I know now, maybe I would have done things different. It was fun doing the build and would do another tomorrow, just because its different.
There are times when you realise cutting a few corners to get it done at all is the right way to go! I cut too many on my van and that includes the motor spec. Oh well!
I'm feeling guilty now If the sorting of the exhaust manifold and heat exchangers goes well...and one side is already ground flat, then I'll definitely look at the carb manifold. I really do appreciate the help you all have given me...I couldn't have done without it. Watch this space.
Ok, ok peer pressure wins I've taken the manifolds off and will get my Dremel out as I don't have a finger sander. One question for when I refit. The gasket kit came with 8 metal single port gaskets (similar to this picture). Do I double up each one and do they have a right way up? Cheers
For the base.... These.. https://www.justkampers.com/00-3227...3-1979-vw-t25-2000cc-aircooled-1979-1983.html And a flap disc on an angle grinder might be faster..there was a fair bit of spare aluminium on the cheapo ones I had
Seconded on the gaskets^. Check your nuts after first good run then they're all good. Never a leak. One of the few Empi products that don't go straight over @snotty 's fence.
I couldn't get those metal gaskets to seal properly so in the end I cut some of my own from thick gasket paper and they were spot on straight away
WWZD...a new acronym Having changed all of my breather pipes, I'm on to the fuel filler, which as you can see needed some TLC. Pipe out, new head and tail rubber on the pipe, but how on earth do you get the tail onto the fuel tank.....my language skills have been creative so I've paused to reduce my blood pressure!
With a lot of profanity and bloodshed. Doing up the jubilee clips is particularly amusing. Much better done with the firewall off. Even then it's a right faff. You're not alone.
And then you check and find the pipe is about to fall off as you tightened the clamp slightly crooked. In fact mine fell off and I lost half a tank of petrol last year.
I now have a very sore arm and still no further forward on fitting the fuel filler pipe. Looking at VWHeritage site their site suggests that the longer pipe type should be the right type for my 78, as the shorter pipe is for earlier bays. https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/211201125d-fuel-filler-hose-tank-to-filler-pipe.html (see item description). However, my metal pipe is definitely suited to the shorter rubber section at the tank. The original rubber connection is curved and the new replacement is straight. So may I check with those who know about these things:- Should my filler be the long rubber pipe and I have the wrong metal pipe or Should I persevere with the shorter pipe and maybe adapt the angle of the rubber pipe as in my picture below. Yours painfully
My ’77 has the metal pipe and short straight hose; it’s been ten years or so and I remember it being tricky but keep going, it will fit - you might have too much hose over the pipe? Try rubber grease (not washing up liquid or WD40).
