Because all the pistons travel through TDC or BDC at the same time where they are barely moving (easy to turn) and half way up/down where they move fast (more difficult to turn) it's most likely just the rings dragging causing the uneven effect.
And when the pistons dwell at TDC and BDC there is little friction for a few degrees. More than 10ft/lb to turn is too tight. EDIT: zedders beat me too it.
Hmmmm, will have to go out later and see what 10ftlbs feel like in the torque wrench, not a lot from memory. Will report back.
Having just checked it turns most of the way round easily but one section needs 14ftlbs to turn using my torque wrench on the fan end crank end bolt. It seemed to get easier as I turned her, so I'm hoping it's just a bit stiff. This is with plugs and oil pump out but hydraulic rockers etc all in.
The only reason I wouldnt go thinwall there is that it gives you less leeway when the wire rubs against something. The standard insulation thickness is more adequate to protect the wire. Thinwall has its place in big wiring looms with low power flowing in many cores. But if the wire gets a bit warm, the insulation starts to soften. I would spend money on more copper rather than appearances.
Thanks Mike The reason I went for thin wall is that the specifications of that had a higher temperature resistance than the standard. I did however also go thicker copper and also an additional outer heat shield.
Next Sunday question. My heat exchanger pipe joints on both sides (red circle) have gaps between them. I understand that some of the US style I have are a bit rare. I'd like to fix these gaps for obvious reasons. However I don't know which bits as standard, which are rare and any suggestions about how to fix these. The yellow circled flanges on both sides are well and truly rusted together but I can't see any gaps on these. Thanks
Would anybody know what the correct flange gaskets are for my US heat exxhange 'U' bend? These are the triangular gaskets and are either 443 253 115b as shown in picture or 025 251 509A as suggested on other sites (and available in Custom and Commercial). My flanges are very bent but I'm trying to improve that and a gasket would help. I've also bought some JB high temperature weld for some of the seams that are leaking and was wondering if this could be used on the flanges if necessary. Thanks
Now I understand why the carb manifolds had the thick phenolic gasket in the wrong place at the junction of the head and manifold. The Empi manifold base is too big to fit inside the tinware gap and the gasket acts as a spacer....bugger. I've checked with the FI manifold and that fits well. So for the time being I may stick with the phenolic gasket at the head as that solves the immediate issue unless there is another option out there?
The phenolic spacer will be from the FI manifolds as they have them as standard but with ICT’s the spacers will be useful in preventing heat soak up to the carb thus preventing boiling. We have the spacers on the head to manifold joint and the smaller ones between manifold and carburettor (on Gusbus) which works successfully.
Thanks @Deefer66 I'll think about that option. Thanks @MorkC68 that's how I found mine when I took it apart :- head/thick gasket/manifold/thin gasket/ICT and it seemed to work. But others have suggested the gaskets should be swapped around to allow the manifold to be hot and the carb to be cold. Keeping the thick gasket in the 'wrong' place is the easy option to get the engine in but I'm open to suggestions as the work I have to do on the exhaust manifold is slowing the install date already.
I can’t remember what the rolling road guys said about the spacers, but I don’t tend to have hot starting issues which others do, it’s cold starts which give me grief but they aren’t carb related. Have you tried Heritage for those gaskets you need, way back they had them in but I don’t have the receipts to hand for the part numbers I used (on Major when he was FI type4 with the same exhaust you have)
Cheers. VWH have the silencer triangular ones but I need to call them to check the size. Custom and Commercial seem to have the rights ones and I've sent them a Q to check. I also never had a hot start issue and again like you it was always cold starts that I had all fingers crossed.
It's the manifold that is incorrect so sort the manifold? Fitting the phenolic spacers there is just lazy.
I agree that sorting the manifold out is probably the right thing to do but for the moment I'm going to be lazy! It is something that I can sort out later and I hope to convert back to FI so I may never need to do it. @zedders, out of curiosity if both @MorkC68 and I have found hot starts fine with the phenolic space could it be that the stubby Empi manifold benefits from the spacer?
