Oil leak source

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Chrisd, May 30, 2020.

  1. Glad its all gone well.

    Take it easy.

    Fingers crosses for it all being sorted before hopefully seeing you in Keiths field
     
  2. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Cheers, that will be my new revised timeframe for the camper to be usable again.
     
    Valveandy and paulcalf like this.
  3. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    I couldn't resist....I've been and hugged my long block...oh err! Whilst I was in the garage I also checked my tinware to see what needs attention when I am able to start working on the nuts again...not long now :) IMG_20210310_155416.jpg
     
    paulcalf, MorkC68, Deefer66 and 3 others like this.
  4. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Tin ware all degreased and ready for a bit of spray tlc.

    Two questions regarding the tinware

    1) on some of the larger pieces I found along some edges a layer of insulation 'type' tape. Is this normal or has a po used this to help stop rattling?

    2) has anybody ever tried adapting the top tinware to creat easier access to the plugs whilst still keeping a good air seal? I'm just cogitating on this one as the plugs HT cables are annoyingly difficult to seat and surely a cut out that can be locked down would work?

    Cheers
     
    Deefer66 likes this.
  5. You could modify them but the leads/caps have a rubber seal on them to try & keep leakage to a minimum. Although they rarely stay put :rolleyes:
     
  6. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Agreed, I was thinking of a cut out that allowed my hand to access the plugs and then slide the plate down with the leads. My sketch shows the big top tin, a suggested cut out that can be sealed and locked and the current two plug holes....just thought play at the moment.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Plugs number 2 and 4 can be a bit tricky to seat correctly, I always push the plug into a short length (6" or so) of garden hose and use that to hold them to get the threads started:thumbsup:
     
    vinnyboy and Chrisd like this.
  8. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    IMG_20210313_153332~2.jpg Quick question. Is there an o ring in this groove?

    I'm about to fill said pump with vaseline and close it up but I have a gasket that came in the kit that fits (@77 Westy you previously mentioned that it may not be the right one) but I can't see any o ring for this groove.

    Second question. My oil sensor goes in this far with one turn after hand tight as described by book etc. The gap is about 3mm. Is this normal?
    IMG_20210313_153950.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2021
  9. The oil pressure switch is a taper thread so should not go all the way in :thumbsup:
    OE pump has an o ring to seal the inner housing to the outer body. It’s probably a different o ring for yours being a Schadek pump than what comes in the gasket set.
     
    Chrisd likes this.
  10. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    I thought it might be but I've been on the CB site and can't see an o ring in the pictures of the Maxi 1. Hmmmm will keep looking.
     
  11. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Checking over my fan and noticed one of the bolts (021119127) holding the fan together was loose. Have taken the fan apart and marked the position of the balance weight for later. Will now clean up but does anybody know where to get the socket head bolt (@davidoft ?)
     

    Attached Files:

  12. Norris

    Norris Supporter

    After I dismantled mine, I was told you should never do that as you'll never get it back in balance. So now I have a dismantled spare, 'cos I bought another whole one
     
    Zed and Chrisd like this.
  13. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    No, don’t fit an O-ring, the groove is an oil passage to return any leakage across the joint face back to the pump suction. The cover gasket needs to be just thick enough to give the pump gears 0.05mm end clearance.
     
    Chrisd likes this.
  14. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    You shouldn’t have done that. :) But now you have, make sure the pulley goes on the fan in exactly the same position as it came off. And ideally it should be rebalanced.
     
    Chrisd likes this.
  15. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Thanks. I've been looking at videos and could not see any o ring and had come to that conclusion.
     
  16. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    I've marked the position very carefully in a number of positions. I'm going to strip the flaking paint back to aluminium and once I've located a new bolt put it back together. Is it possible to balance at home?
     
  17. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    If you get everything back in exactly the same position and the runout of the pulley is good, I’d refit it. @Norris might have a bolt.:)
     
  18. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I got my fan back together without run out by using a simple square. I also have un unmolested spare I bought in case I couldn't. I had my fan bead blasted.
     
  19. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Lunch break.

    Pulley painted and drying but inside edge of pulley masked off and back not done to preserve fan marks to help reassembly.
    A bit of elbow grease applied this morning to the rest of the fan. :)

    @zedders curious about your method to align, could you mind expanding your description of what you did please.
     

    Attached Files:

  20. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    All this talk of balancing fans is making me nervous :eek: I split the one on Gusbus, painted it and popped it back together, never realised the importance of it being balanced etc :(
     
    Zed likes this.

Share This Page