Use normal strength blue loctite. As Has been mentioned take the equivalent amount off the bolt threads as the thickness of the washers. Last thing you want is the cam bolts hitting something behind the gear by protruding through too much. You could bolt the fan on temporarily to hold while you loosen/tighten cam bolts.
Now Geoff you're just trying to confuse and conbobulate me even more 272 me thinks is the red and 242 the blue https://toolingfun.com/loctite-threadlocker-242-vs-243-series-272-vs-271/
Before I start cleaning and then installing my oil pump I just wanted to check if this is the right sort for my 2ltr. A similar one is shown on the web as identified for 1600 only. If it is OK then should it have the thick seal it currently has which sits against the case? In addition to this thick seal I have the normal paper gasket and oil seal in my gasket kit for the other faces in the pump. Thanks
That’s a Schadek/CB Maxi oil pump, exactly the same as the one I use. You can’t buy new Type 4 oil pumps and that one is a modified Type 1. You should have checked the clearance between the oil pump and the cam drive gear bolts as you built the crankcase but as the pump has been fitted previously it’s reasonable to assume it will fit again. I don’t use that thick gasket but you’ll have to ensure the pump doesn’t clash with the cam bolts. The gaskets in the kit are not for that pump. Things to check before you fit it: The pump gear backlash is not critical but the end float is, so check the clearance between the gears and the pump cover and use a gasket that will give 0.003”/ 0.075mm float – no more. It is likely the pump body is a loose fit in the crankcase, they almost always are and it’s not good because it leaks oil internally and oil pressure is lost. II it’s loose a simple ‘fix’ is to use self-adhesive aluminium tape on the pump body, it sounds a bodge but it works – and you can guess how I know. To fit the pump, you MUST slacken the crankcase bolts above and below the pump and you’ll have to be extremely careful if you have to use tape on the pump, the best way to do it is to fit the pump body as you bolt the crankcase together but it’s too late for that Once the pump body is installed check the drive gear locates in the end of the cam, turn the gear and you will feel it engage and you can measure how much engagement there is. Too much and the gear could be forced against the cover, too little and the drive tang could come out of the cam. Fit the driven gear, fill the pump with petroleum jelly (not grease) and fit the cover, then don’t turn the engine until you’re ready to start it. Valve clearances and static timing should be done before you fit the pump.
I left out the oil pump case bolts and came back to fit it after all my rocker messing about when nearly done. I just vaselined up the gears enough to make them 'gloopy' and help pull the oil through .put a syringe or two of oil down the pressure sensor hole too just before firing just in case... Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Thanks @77 Westy and @Deefer66 , I will take that away and digest as not much time to do stuff tonight. In the mean time, I took the first star washer off last night and measured for any obstruction behind the gear. Clearance from where the bolt will sit on the cam gear face to any obstruction is just over 14mm and the bolt is only 12mm. Assuming the cam gear does not move this much I'm hoping I will be in just refitting them. I've tried to follow Wilson and Jack Raby' so if I've missed a step, it's their fault..
Tom Wilson is good but doesn’t cover non-original parts – like fitting a Type 1 Schadek/CB Maxi oil pump to a Type 4. Jack Raby's attention to detail is second to none but he’s not user friendly, and I’m really surprised he uses star washers on the cam bolts.
Just popped out for a quick check of my pump and without the thick gasket the drive gear is now proud of the front of the pump body by about 1mm. I assume this shaft in the gear is adjustable? In terms of the fit of the pump in the case. I could just get a 0.1mm feeler gauge (but not the 0.15mm) into the space before the case bolts around the pump area are torqued down. Is this OK or do I get some sticky Aluminium foil ready?
If it’s proud by 1mm and the gasket is 2mm use the thick gasket and leave the pump as is. If necessary, there is a limited ‘adjustment’ of the shaft in the gear – the gear is on a keyway and can be moved with enough force, a vice works. The fit of the pump is a tough call, if it isn’t tight in the crankcase oil will spray out the gap instead of into the gallery, you won’t see a leak but it’ll be *******ing out internally. The pump should be size for size or a slight interference fit, you have 0.1mm clearance, sticky aluminium foil is about 0.05mm thick. But how to fit the pump into the crankcase without the foil peeling off. Try it, slacken the casing bolts above and below the pump, the casing relaxes, it won’t spring apart and there is no problem to retighten the bolts after the pump is in. If you can’t get the pump in with foil all the way around, try just half way.
The CB pump I had, the drive tang was way to long, like 5mm. The drive tang should not sit proud of the pump but it should not bottom out in the cam slot either. I installed mine like you did and it wiped my thrust bearing. I’ll try to find you a pick. BTW, the clearance should be ok. I ran a cam with the same gear, bolts and washers.
This is how far the drive tang goes into the cam slot from the base of a stock pump. So even if you file down the tang until it bottoms out and the gear sits flush the tang is still too deep in the cam slot.
That driveshaft protrusion is because the CB pumps start with the driveshaft out in the corresponding position for a T1 dished gear camshaft and need pressing back in for a flat cam. In which second case the end of the drive shaft is then flush with the pump gear against the pump cover. No filing for that use case. There was 2.00 mm of movement available on my T1 CB (Schadek) pump. The bolt head clearance needed is the to the casting on the back of the pump where the idler pump gear shaft is fixed as that gets close.
....and here I was thinking the pump is nice and easy. Previous setup in first picture below, in order starting from outside:- Pump front cover Thin paper gasket Pump body Thick gasket 1.7mm Crankcase Pump insitu with thick gasket, both gears flush with front plate Pump parts with front plate showing signs of wear from gear...not major wear, can't even feel with finger but marked as shown. Pump with thick gasket removed showing gear proud (1.3mm) as it is located fully in cam slot and also shows space from head of shaft to face of gear. So as I see it my options are A) leave as is with thick gasket (or new version of similar thickness) B) remove thick gasket and press gear shaft in to make it shorter overall C) some other idea you guys might have Thanks
B all day as mentioned you don’t want the drive spigot bottoming in cam drive slot. You need some clearance or it will trash your thrust bearing.
A) all day! Use the thick gasket, if you remove it the body of the pump may foul the cam gear bolts. Tang to cam clearance is okay. The wear on the cover is probably insignificant but it’s easy to lap it on a flat plate if you wanted to remove the marks.
