Oil pick up with new copper washer went in nice and easily. I've identified the top nut and bolts with the help of @Deefer66 picture. Just to add to the common good, here is my picture showing where I think there is an additional bolt to add which I think is Deefer's question mark in the top corner.
I think that top corner is meant as a lifting point and has no bolt...but not 100% on that... Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Neither am I but as it had one in there previously I could either A) replace like for like or B) assume the PO did not have a clue and ignore what went before. Considering the engine has so far been found to previously coated in silicon bathroom sealant, wrong clutch and wring flywheel size and hammered in cam plug....I'm not sure Edit...B it is then!
It’s not needed but I always fit one because I think it just looks wrong with an empty hole. And its used as the top mounting for a CSP bell crank throttle linkage.
When I was doing this full time I had an engine hoist and used those holes, it was brilliant. I'd have to trundle yours around balanced on a jack.
Hi all. I've now done some measurements and thought I'd get some opinions. Background refresh first. 2ltr, type 4, AMC head GE code engine case for the American market Measured compression before work started No1 - 160 No 2 - 158 No 3 - 147 No 4 - 160 In dismantling the engine, I found it had a shim of 0.5mm and a spacer 1.0mm and the AMC head lip is 1mm. Having now measure the compression chamber volume and the deck height I've put the numbers into online calculators and below are the data and results. Piston 93.95, bore diameter 94mm Stroke 71mm (assumed), actual measured about 71.3mm Head volume 59.35ml Piston dish volume 15.50ml Deck height at TDC 0mm (zilch, nada nothing) So using these I get a CR of 7.58:1 on one site and 7.7:1 on another. If I do the calculation again with the depth of the shim and spacer I did have in there previously, the 7.7 drops to 6.9:1. So, looks like I should omit the shim and spacer to get a better CR than I had previously, but will the AMC 1mm lip be enough clearance for my valves or any other considerations I may have missed? As ever, thanks in advance
Yes, omit the shim and spacer, although I’d use a spacer on one side so the CR is the same. 1mm is fine for piston to head clearance – the valves are never close.
7.6:1 7.7:1 CR is ok. You don’t want it below 7:1. You need to use or omit base spacer gaskets on one side to get the CR unifomaly the same.
Sorry, I may have confused people. I have only measured No 1 deck height. The 2 x CR readings are from different online calculators using the same data.
It’s a bolt on gear so probably not an original cam but it’s difficult to identify just by looking at it. Are there any markings on the end, in the middle of the gear? The numbers on the OD of the cam are casting and material references and don’t mean anything useful. You could measure the cam lift (lobe height less the base circle diameter), multiply this by 1.3 (rocker ratio) and that will be the valve lift. But that won’t tell you what cam it is. I’ve just noticed you’ve used star washers under the cam bolts, they bite into the gear and the bolts come loose. Use Loctite with no washers but be careful the bolts don’t foul anything on the other side of the gear.
@Deefer66 and @77 Westy the case is all sealed so unless there is something I really, really need to do ( aka those washers ) with the cam I'm intending to leave as is. The cam is untouched by me and looked in good nick when inspected after disassembly by myself and @mcswiggs some time ago when we were allowed to meet up! Edit:- I know there is no such thing as one definitive answer but on Jake Raby's video he uses the same star washers. As my oil pump is not installed, I think it might be possible to remove the washers insitu (see photo for access) but I'd really don't want to do this unless I really have to, saying that, I'd rather fix it now if they are going to come loose!
If you search the forums I doubt if you’ll find anyone that recommends star washers. You could change one at a time through the oil pump hole, shorten the bolt the thickness of the washer just to be sure it doesn’t extend too far out the other side. Or leave well alone.
If you haven’t had the gear off the cam & it’s been like that for some time without issues I would be tempted to leave as is. Having said that i would probably whittle about them & have to do them anyway now the seed has been set
I've just looked and access from the pump is viable. As long as I can stop the cam moving I might give it a go. Jake Raby only applies 14ftlbs when assembling with star washers. Question therefore arises, is 14ftlbs the correct torque without the star washers? Secondly what type of locktight or equivalent should I use, as I have to buy some anyway.
