What is it they say about measure once and then measure again.....? Well second time round and with each head measured 3 or 4 times I get much a more accurate and stable set of results. Thanks for all of the advice. Measurements with 7.1ml of quench volume added (edit measure 1mm depth AMC lip but will need to check this again at a later date) Cyl 1 = 59.3 ml Cyl 2 = 59.4 ml Cyl 3 = 59.0 ml Cyl 4 = 59.1 ml Looks better
Now I have all of the parts, started the assembly. Oil pressure relief value done and case bolts all in. I have also measured the distributer gap as suggested by Wilson and all good, so that has been put aside for tomorrow ready for the assembly of the crank, cam and seal the case ... exciting!
Should I have bothered...too late now. I thought taking the crankshaft needle pilot bearing would be easy to replace...3 hours later after lots of swearing I've managed to get the bugger out with only (I hope) a small out of scoring on the inner face. It was almost like the bearing case had fused itself to the crank. Cup of tea and back out to carry on with planned work! Should I put any grease/oil on the outside of the new pilot bearing shell which fits to the crankcase interface?
A bit late but if you fill the hole with grease and give a tight-fitting dowel a couple of sharp knocks with your favourite persuader the bearings pops out. I use a diesel pilot bearing 056105313C with an integral seal but the flywheel needs a small counterbore added as the bearing protrudes slightly out of the crank.
Thanks. I already have the new one https://www.heritagepartscentre.com...needle-bearing-1700-2000cc-or-waterboxer.html To oil or not to help insertion...ooh err?
I've yet to remove my needle bearing, but having been told about the grease trick I've found an old drive shaft out of a type 1 oil pump. I reckon if I wrap 3 layers of duck tape around it, it should be snug enough to give it a clout. Certainly it's not come out with gentle persuasion yet, so grease it is
Yes, that’s the standard bearing without a seal. The seal in the diesel bearing stops carp getting in and grease getting out. No need for oil to replace the bearing but grease it when it’s in. The diesel bearing is cheaper too. https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/056105313c-crankshaft-end-bearing.html
I use a dowel whittled down to be a snug fit but anything will do as long as it’s not sloppy. If it doesn’t come out with a clout, use a heavier hammer and hit it harder – gentle taps won’t work.
Getting there, but boy was cold in the garage today...brrrrrrr. Lots of bolts to identify and tighten next and then onto pistons and deck heights
Don't forget the one that goes through the eye of the oil pickup. You've not fitted it on that ^ photo yet. On mine I also missed the nut from the sneaky stud that is tucked behind the gearbox flange, just below the cam blanking plug
Thanks and yes you're correct I haven't done any of the gazillion bolts yet. My job for today is to figure out which ones are which. I labeled everything carefully except for the multitude of bolts....doh!
Nice work.. the oil pick up through bolt is one of the first as the case can trap the pick up eye and makes getting the bolt in difficult Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
I carb cleanered and 'sealanted' (that nice green curil stuff) every washer.. gets a bit messy with cack hands like mine....though I believe that might effect torque readings... Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
The bolt for the oil pickup should have a copper washer (it should be in the gasket set), but I use a steel washer and sealant. Use this to sort out which bolt goes where - http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_singl...g/101/subcategory/2010/part_id/3682881/lang/e
