Yes Geoff is right you don’t want the body of the pump catching the cam gear bolts. Thick gasket it is
Didn’t know about pressing the tang further in. I would really go that route. Getting the gear flush is not enough. Any garage with a press. Give them your measurements. You also don’t want to mess up the pump/case oil ports lining up by stacking gaskets. I chased lowish oil pressure on my bus for a long time. I really thought it was the loose fit of the pump. I’m sure that contributes but the main source in my case turned out to be a worn spring for the oil pressure relief valve. Oil pressure was way better when I replaced the spring and piston. EMW in California sells a sleeved CBP pump to solve the fit problem. It’s not on the website but Jorge answers his phone. http://www.europeanmotorworks.com/vw/type-4-oiling-system.html
Here is my long and tedious thread on the Samba starting with dealing with the oil pump situation and how I checked the cam bolt to oil pump clearance with the cam still in. I ended up rebuilding, because my cam end play was way out: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=606016&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=60 It chronicles 3 engine builds starting with drunken barnyard antics to learning to use micrometers. It moves on to lots of hair splitting, attempts at atom splitting and a quest to find the god particle itself. If you are ever feeling insufficient as an engine builder it will surely give you a cheering up.
Why, what’s wrong with the pump as it is? Sorry, I don’t know what you mean, not enough for what? Stacking gaskets is not being proposed, using a gasket the same thickness is.
I've just checked and the photo below shows the pump without the gasket and the holes do not align. With the original gasket back in the alignment is better. So I think I'll go with replicating the original setup i.e. with thick gasket. Thanks.
Sorry, I misread something. You are indeed not stacking gaskets, the thick gasket is fine. I was referring to the drive tang being at the right depth in the cam gear. There is a spec somewhere. It kind of floats in there, not all the way in. I honestly don’t know how critical it is. Just one of those things to look out for when using aftermarket parts that’s not in the books that caused me a lot of grief until I read up on it. I avoid passing on stuff that I hear 1000 times on the Samba, but chime in if it is something I have dealt with in my own experience. It looks like you’ve got it sorted out though. Happy trails.
You probably need to do B anyway. Tap the shaft with a hammer with the top of the gear resting on something like a bit of flat cast iron - my vice has a small "anvil" section on it for instance. It worked for me in a field at Techenders. .. And if the bolts are going to hit, it might be as well to trial fit , then file a bit off the back of the pump if necessary, as gasket thickness under the pump is going to be a bit dependent on torquing up bolts - you are also trying to keep the pump top sealed using the same pressure.
You can also put a blob of grease on the drive tang. Slide it in to the cam slot with the pump case installed. That will tell you the depth. The cam bolt clearance should be ok with that pump if it is a 26mm.
It’s not an original pump but is has been in the engine before and it fitted without being battered with a hammer. The pump gears are sintered iron, wear resistant and durable but they are precision machined and can be damaged. If you really must hit them, use a soft faced hammer and a hardwood block but if the shaft needs to be pushed through the gear it is far easier to simply squeeze it in a vice – with soft jaws of course. I’d avoid the John Muir style of engineering.
Thanks everybody for your advice. After a bit of measuring and a bit more measuring the cam gear no longer has the star washers attached. I tried installing the pump case with the thin Al tape and it would not go in, even with only half of the circumference tapped up. So, the pump case (au naturel) and thick gasket have been installed, permatex'd and torqued down temporarily and the gear fitted to check again with the cam gear and all seems to be turning smoothly.... Time for a beer
I decided to follow Wilson's advice and measure my end float with my new flywheel before fitting other bits. After an hour of head scratching over measurements, old shims (po had 4 ) and getting in a right muddle, I finally figured out I needed a beer. At which point with addition of some chilli flavoured crisps, I realised my mistake. The gauge shown shows approximately 0.18mm not 0.018mm - doh
Ignore the gauge, it was just one of many measurements, shown to illustrate what am idiot I am! I've now figured out the 3 new shims I need to get approximately an end float of 0.1mm.
Correct. You are lucky to have a metric dial gauge, I found my imperial one for 50p then never replaced it.
I had borrowed this guage and a few other bits and bobs from @mcswiggs some time ago. With lockdown he might get them back one day
