We have an Oxford Dial Gauge at work, metric, it’s from 1972 and is as accurate as the day it was made according to the calibration guys. It gets looked after!
We have one of those too, 0-10mm from memory but its getting battleworn and needs to be in my garage putting to one side
Mr Raby and Mr Wilson diverge on how to prime hydraulic lifters. So I'm going with both, leave 'soaking' in oil for a few days (JR) and the pump lifter in oil afterwards (Wilson). I've got time as I've messed up with my sequence as I forgot to prep my heat deflectors and push rod. I know it's a bit obsessive, but they will be nice and shiny! Picture of undercoat.
Hi all. Prior to starting on the push rod installation and rocker arms, I just wanted to ask if there were any pointers and tips? I have a few specific questions but any additional pointers would be great. Specifics 1) Push rod tube o rings. Oil or Permatex? 2) Before adjusting my timing (note hydraulic lifters), do both sides need to be complete or can I work on one side and then turn engine over to start on push rod tube etc? 3) Rocker cover cork gasket, Permatex or not? The pictures below are for fun...this is what mine looked like at the start of my search for my oil leak. Do you think the 'small' kink might have been part of the problem!
No sealant on push rod tubes or rocker covers for me.. don't have hydraulic lifters... Push rod tubes move a bit so not much point for me there.. rocker covers can go either way some do some don't I hold 8n position with a bit of grease in installation, as long as they don't move had no problem so far. Just make sure they're really clean Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Just oil or a lick of vaseline on the o rings. Nothing on cork gasket or a dab of vaseline to hold it in place. Grease will do otherwise.
Inspect your ali sealing surfaces for the o-rings. If they are pitted, I'd use a smear of sealant. If they are lovely smooth like new, oil to lubricate while fitting. Old case/new heads could end up with a mixture. New heads - the lead in for the o-rings is razor sharp - best to do something about that, it doesn't take much to blunt that sharp edge it but if you don't it can cut the o-ring. Never use abrasives on ali though hahaha. Hydro pushrods do not locate themselves into the followers and need see-sawing. Don't forget to fit the under-cylinder tin first.
..what kind of idiot would do that.. .. note to self.. follow the to do list! Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
I would, many times. The other one is fitting type-1 heat exchangers without slotting the under tins in as you go....and the other one is fitting type-4 heat exchangers again without slotting the stove pipes in as you go. I expect there are more. I fitted an engine without a clutch. I fitted an early clutch without removing the packing clips. Someone else replaced a servo without taking out the vac blanking plug...it goes on...
I think I use first time of fitting (or more realistically secand and third) as a test run or practice ... sometimes going many stages further on before removing it all just because I like taking skin off my knuckles on any random bit of engine that developed a razor like ability when not looking.. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
I use silicone gaskets on the rocker covers with no sealant, cork might need a smear of sealant on the cover side to hold the gasket in place. The secret of leak free pushrod tubes is cleanliness. All traces of previous sealant must be removed and as zedders says any sharp edges on the heads or case must be smoothed so the O-ring isn’t cut during installation. I don’t use any sealant, if the sealing faces are pitted, they’ll leak regardless, just a smear of o-lube or oil is all that is necessary. Incidentally, over the years Jake Raby used a variety of sealants but eventually none at all. Don’t use a hammer to fit the tubes, (ignore the YouTube clips you might watch), firm and constant pressure with a slight twist and the tube will slide in. Don’t forget the retaining wire spring that fits in the rocker pedestal. Of course, nobody would fit the pedestals the wrong way up. I did, but only once. No problem to set the follower pre-load and finish one side before moving on to the other. What pre-load will you use? The samba will give you plenty of choice.
I use a hammer. Not really, but I use an old tube and bang that with my hand if I have to. Always focussed on the top of the ring which can need guiding in with a blunt instrument. Maybe I'm not trying hard enough but the o-ring just sits there while the tube spins when I've tried that.
