Discussion in 'Show Us Your Ride' started by Zebedee, Sep 3, 2011.
A low van is a happy van
somewhere around 3 inches on front 2 adjusters
1 spline on rear
think it will sit better after i change the front tyres for something smaller as i have 195 commercials all round at the moment
here is mine with my new wheels Chevrolet bolt 5-4,75"
7x15 ET0 front 175/55 and back 175/70 vredenstein sprint classic.
now with T2D shocks and 185 70 14 tyres on front
sits and rides loads better!
This is definetly the look I want! Nice an low, but I still want to keep standard wheels and don't want to start notching and stuff?
Can anyone give me an idea of what further drop I would get by taking it down one more notch on my front adjusters?
I currently have a 50 mm gap between my tyre and the lowest part of the inner wheel arch with the bus empty.
I wanted a little lower for the look but didn't want to be rubbing.
Also, do I need to replace the shocks for this much lower than standard or only if it is proper slammed?
Photos of the difference 1 notch makes would be good.
Keep em coming... Need threads like this to keep me working towards my goal!
Good thread - thought i was back home on EB for a mo
Keep em coming
Trouble with lowering a long way on adjusters is you are getting too close to the ball joint limit and you've lost your bump stops. If you have 50mm now and want to loose another inch you will have less than an inch of suspension and nothing to catch it except the wheel tub. Hate to say it, but you need a new beam with bump stops and dropped spindles and even then you will only have a tiny bit of suspension before you hit the stops. Teeny tyres will help but IMO look daft.
Just having mine raised back up to stock height after the previous owner had it lowered, cant see the point in having to spend your relaxed driving time
tensed up trying to avoid potholes so that the suspension does not 'bottom out "
Same here except I did the lowering myself. Looked cool but rather unpractical. My bay eats the bumps now and I don't ricochet between the seat and the headlining. Bliss!
Well I wish I had done it myself as whoever lowered it previously really messed it up. cu the bump stops in half welded an adjuster in the
wrong place so it had bent the gear rod, costing me a lot more to put it back to how it SHOULD be.
I cant wait to get out on the road and relax!
You have to cut off the stops if you fit adjusters and they always foul the gear shift rod. Just the way of it and why I went for the bolt on solution - flipped spindles and adjustable spring plates. Nuts and bolts and easy to put back.
Well I for one am glad it is back to how it should be, off to try it out on the Welsh coast next weekend
The flip side of course is that on smooth roads, slammed to the max without notching, it was dream to drive. It didn't blow about, I could let go the steering wheel at 70mph and it cornered like a car until it bump steered, but even that was good once you got the hang of it.
on the subject of lowering, mine has coils over the shocks on the rear (yellow ones) the bushes look past their best, is this cos of the weight in a westy or aftermarket? can i just go heavy duty shocks or??
Greetings from Denmark.
I am new to this site but have had aircooled for 22 years. I want to show my Doka from 1977.
bedst Regards Peter
Been trawling the prototype equivalent of this thread... seriously guys at 7 pages we are slacking compared to their 21!!
I think I know how I want to go lower now (T2D Spindles and adjustable springplates) but the whole tyre / ratio / wheel choice thing needs a little more concentration
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