Fixed brake reservoir, got spark, floats set. Set to 7.5⁰

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by jameswick89, Sep 20, 2022.

  1. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    If you can see rust in the float bowls that means that it will also have settled out in the bottom of passages.

    It may need an ultrasonic cleaner to dislodge it from deep corners.

    Or give it another going over with carb cleaner.. if you squirt it in to a hole on one carb, see where it comes out. Do the same on the other carburettor, it should do the same.
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2022
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  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    The fibre gaskets are great, but as well as fishing out the metal ones :rolleyes: two things
    They are too big, you must draw around the manifold with a biro and cut then down to size - I find scissors are good for this.
    After a 10-20 miles or a good warm up you'll find you need to re-tighten your nuts, just the once.
    If after this round or sorting out it's still rough, try temporarily blocking the T off to the servo in case there's a leak down stream or the servo is malfunctioning.
     
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  3. I went ham with he carb cleaner spraying it in every nook and cranny I could. Took out all the jets sprayed them, the channels from where I took them out if there's anything left, the only way it's shifting is with a ultrasonic clean.

    Just checked the emulsion tube f6, it was a right bugger to get out it was pressed in so hard.
     
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  4. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Air leak then, probably the double gaskets.
     
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  5. Just wanted the engine up. I was doing a half turn on the mixture screw then drive around the car park at it always starts to stagger at 3000rpm. I have removed the mental gaskets on the right hand side when I put it back after checking the jet sizes.

    I will do the same on the left shortly. Just needs to cool down abit
     
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  6. F6 emulsions are good news.
     
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  7. So I just went to test my fuel pressure gauge but that was a flop and didn't work.

    But I was read on another post about an engine running rough, and they had an issue with timing advance.

    I just started my engine with it at 7.5⁰ and it starts with the flick of the key don't even need to pump the accelerator,

    I then turned the dizzy CCW. Lead one facing 5 o clock to about 3 o clock. Unfortunately my timing light has broken revs went up took it around the car park and drove really well no back firing or reduce power. But could tell the mixture still isn't 100%
     
  8. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    You just increased your advance by about 60 degrees, one more o'clock and you'd be on the next cylinder!
     
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  9. That definitely doesn't sound like a good thing, I'll order another timing light now. Is it possible the vacuum advance isn't advancing?
     
  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Anything is possible, you can test it when you get your new timing light.
    TBH, though it makes noticeable difference on a t1 stock carb engine, If I unplug mine on my dell powered 2.4L type-4 I don't notice.
    It only operates at very low throttle positions. It's particularly good at covering the long intake runner delay on a stock single carb as you pull away.
     
  11. I think I've done it. Well the carbs still need tuning but the popping and back firing has gone the left butterfly was opening a faction before the right. Would that cause the backfiring???
     
  12. Little update, I just drove to the petrol station to fill up a little bit. Drives fine if I'm light on the accelerator pedal but as soon as I put my foot down it staggers a bit.

    So I got back to the car park looked into, turned off the engine, then looked in engine bay, twisted the linkage a couple of times. Noticed there is a leak somewhere and going to The underside of the float chamber. I have replaced the diaphragm twice the current one is a double skin one.

    Honestly I think I'm done with this carb and just going to chance getting this.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/35429301...BqoHX9rQTu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
     
  13. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Surprisingly they are supposed to be ok, but you'll need to take them apart, clean, set the floats and probably re jet. Remember there's 4 of everything.
     
    jameswick89 likes this.

  14. So I just adjusted the mixture following the empi set up video. Just did a 15mile trip with sitting in traffic and it just drove beautifully, definitely feel that it has less power that the 2l but definitely not pokey either.

    Carb only leaks if I do like 3 quick squirts full throttle.

    I put an offer of 250 plus 55 post so 305 I didn't think was to bad. For them.

    Fancy having a visitor when they arrive and helping me set them up, course I will pay you
     
  15. Just got my timing light, I was at 8.5⁰ from doing it by eye, set it to 7.5⁰ then reved it up and advances to 36⁰. Is this good/ normal
     
  16. If I remember correctly, max advance is 32 degrees. Someone will be along to correct me, if I am wrong. Static time it to 7.5 degrees to get started, as you have done. Then you need to set the max advance and live with what you get it tick-over, but it should tick over ok.

    Remember you have no chokes with ICT's so you can get rough running when cold. But my fuel economy improved and I got a more drivable bus once they were tuned and balanced. ICT's are not as good as a set of 36 dellortos but they are good carbs when set up properly. Mine is a 1641 btw.
     
  17. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    So this is an engine swap too?
    What was wrong with the 2L?
    Why change carbs if it's going ok now?
     
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  18. I never knew you could change the advance. Googled it after you said. So thank you.






    I bought them before I got the carbs working. I put an offer of 250 thinking they would take awhile to accept or decline. Then I thought I'd give the carbs one go. It seems to be running really well now. it's a sluggish till the engine warms then is smooth.

    The 2l over heated and lightly melted piston 3, also I had a crack in the cylinder head, it leaked oil soo much oil 100mile would use 4L of oil the finally I crushed the bearings. Then I was moving to a flat so had very little time to get it sorted. I found a running engine for 900 I thought it was worth a gamble.
     
  19. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I think I remember. Is it a 1700? they like a few revs and so they like a 3 rib box. If you have a 6 rib that went with the 2L it will definitely feel gutless.

    Type-4 generally max advance should be 28-30. If you set your max back to 30, your idle will be 1.5. Not good. To overcome this you can bend in the weight stops in your distributor to limit the advance and achieve your desired 7.5 to 30.

    ref your earlier post I'd help set your carbs up if you were within 20 miles of Rufford, Lancs.
     
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