Fixed brake reservoir, got spark, floats set. Set to 7.5⁰

Set timing to 7.5 before 0
Point gap set to .4mm
Getting 12v to (15 on coil)
Plus to negative on coil getting 4 ohm's
Positive to centre getting 9.2 ohm's




Im being dumb here what are the beeakers

 

One thing you can do to test the spark is get the distributor cap off and manually open and close the points. Either turn the distributor or the engine to get the gap to open.You should get a spark from the main lead from coil to distributor if you hold it close to an earth point. Snotty usually holds it to his left nipple but he’s an old hand at this.

 

Not beeakers, breakers.
Points
Contact Breaker Points

 

Thank you so much I turned it by hand, by doing this I've realized what an idiot I've been I wired my new fuel pump to either side of the coil, as soon as I disconnected it I've got my spark back and now a dead battery haha

 

Doh!
Always use the van body for -ve connections, it's one huge -ve wire.
Getting there.

 

Although annoying that I did this, I'm also kinda glad I did learn a lot today.

Setting the points
7.5⁰ btdc also finally found the notch
How to manually check for a spark

Tomorrow/Monday will be trying to get my empi 34 EPC to run as smoothly as I can befor taking it to a garage. I have stripped it down took all the jets out sprayed carb cleaner and replaced the diaphragms but I did more research I haven't checked the float heights.

 

Float height VERY important.
Forget the garage and keep asking on here - you'll keep learning, save a bundle, be able to diagnose faults on the roadside potentially saving your holidays and marriage. It's win, win.

 

^this. Don't take it to a "garage". They won't have a clue, and will probably tell you you need "a new carb".

 

Afternoon all,

I have finally been able to get the engine to start but my issue now is idle.

I have cleaned the carb, jets new diaphragm, set the floats to 6mm and 12mm, timing is at 7.5⁰ so last thing must be fuel mixture

I believe I screw in the mixture screw all the way in the either 2 and half turns out or 3? But this need to be done with the engine warm what temp should I warm it to as I have to stay on the accelerator to stop the engine from dying

 

Forget the turns on th mixture screws, they depend entirely on the idle jet size and how sucky your engine is.
You have to get it running before you warm it up, so get round there and set them. You can fine tune later with the engine warmed up.
Try unscrewing them a couple more turns to see if it will hold idle. As you fiddle it will gradually warm up and things get easier even after a couple of minutes.
You can't get it warm enough on the drive for final setting but you can get close enough for it to idle nicely.
If the mix turns doesn't do it, try half a turn on the throttle stops to speed it up a bit.

Read up on lean best idle, you basically turn out the screws until popping in the exhaust stops then keep going for a smooth idle. keep going until the revs stop increasing. Don't count turns, the 2 1/2 3 turns is a rough and ready start point.

 

Mid afternoon update I got the engine warmed up nicely 100⁰f at the sump can get it to idle at about 1000 rpm.

Then I hear the loud ticking of my fuel regulator, and I'm out of fuel time to come in and have some lunch. Before I brave the walk to the petrol station.

Been a bit of a morning sadly someone stole my bike last night from my front garden cut the lock. Bought it about 3 weeks ago second hand ready for when the van was ready so I could park up and go off. Bit gutted and sad that people can't respect others belongings

 

Just warming up the engine

 

Getting there but not quite right is it? Hesitates/misfires on pick up and again as it slows down. Sounds like it pops in the exhaust when it gets back to idle. If you drove it I reckon it would fall on it's face a bit as you tried to pull away.

The good - it's not shaking about, I think you probably have the carbs balanced at idle, maybe not just off idle though. You should be able to see this by eye and hear it as the throttle settles back on to the stops (with the engine off). Personally I've given up trying to use meters for the linkage balance and do much better as described by eye/ear. When the throttle goes back onto the stops if one is solid sounding and the other soft, the soft one is opening first. Could be that's your problem.

 

So close now I can almost taste it or its the burnt oil smoke coming into the cab .

Im getting back fire from the right hand one if I open it quickly,

I wish I could drive it round the car park but my brakes need bleeding

 

Have you checked the accelerator pump is pumping immediately you touch the throttle and providing a good squirt?

 

Both of them are giving very good squirts

This it running a bit longer I feel like I'm getting closer. The popping is coming up the carb

 

Something to aim for, not that this is A1 but it's something. You should be able to blip the throttle without it coughing. Excuse the strange angle, I can't remember why I filmed this.