Sorry for dodgy camera work, I think it don't sound right on a throttle blip, Its quite noisey as I'm under a tin carport so a lot of resonance
Sounds quite fast? Do you know what rpm that is at idle? Yes, quite noisy but as you say hard to judge on a phone recording.
That was the first time it's been run since fitting this afternoon, when I get it to 3000 rpm with vac advance disconnected from the vac can and plugged , I think the timing goes to 30° btdc ,
Looks good, check around for hisses - use a hose held to your ear , see if you can hear a sharp hissing of any air leaks. Also on that fuel pressure gauge, put the hose clamps on a bit closer to the body of the T piece - too far out and they start to drag the hose down the slope of the barb inside the hose rather than hold it on. Put the clamp closer than the barb to the body, then you dont need to do it up amazingly tightly. In fact the reality is that the correct diameter small bore hoses will stay on properly barbed connectors at a couple of PSI without ever falling off.
Where is the best place to take the 12v feed for the fuel shut off solenoid , I presume it has to ignition fed or if the engine stops
To find max advance, ignore the rpm, just increase rpm until the distributor stops advancing. Hopefully you have built it right, don't have air leaks, jetting correct and your max advance is set correctly. In which case it will be fine. They don't melt unless something is wrong.
Well it's happened again, the video yesterday is the only time it's been run, All valve clearances set @0.15 Just checked the clearances today and see what you think , I'm going to reset them drve it for 20 mins and recheck again in the morning
Holy macaroni. I thought it sounded a bit tappety on your vid but not that bad. So you've now lost the "last time's" 0.6mm or so plus another 1.2mm, getting on for 2mm. If you can't find where you've lost that much metal I'd throw the towel in and get a recon. Obviously it's more tempting to try again with new cam/followers. Also what state are the adjuster screws in? If they are like this You should replace them - mine are 50 years old and don't have any of that going on.
All look fine as they were all renewed 180 miles ago, pushrods tubes are all 280mm long as I just measured them aswell Typical it was booked in again at harry harpic for a once over tomorrow,
Ah, well, time to double check that? Does seem to be the same mileage that your gaps are increasing? Just to humour us, unscrew the worst one and show us please.
This hasent done any millage, it's still up on stands, I'm off to the doctors now , I will unbolt the rocker arm and take a pic when I return
I don’t know what to suggest you do, you can’t remove the cam followers on a Type 1 so you’re very limited on what you can check without a full disassembly. You could pull the rocker gear and pushrods and that’s about it. If it were just one gap that had opened up, we might suspect a loose adjuster screw lock nut but all of them…extremely unlikely. Although there are many wear points you didn’t find anything wrong with the whole valve train assembly last time and the rocker gear pedestal bolts were tight. Damage to the adjusting screws and/or valve stems would be obvious and I can’t think of anything else that would cause all of the valve gaps to increase. See what happens after a 20-minute run but there must be something wrong that we/you have missed. Listen for any noise that increases or decreases.
