Engine refresh

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Adrian1975, Feb 21, 2022.

  1. Adrian1975

    Adrian1975 Supporter

    I'm removing the engine type 1 1.6, I purchased a set 1641 barrels and pistons a few years back, the engine has oil leaks so will be comming out possibly this week,

    I have taken a few readings and would like some advise on weather it's worth splitting the case and doing bearings ECT based on these readings

    No-2 plug has a helicoil fitted which comes out with the plug and I can't separate it so can't check the compression on that cylinder,

    Correct oil level, wide open throttle,

    Oil pressure I'm not 100% sure as I had to change the gauge but I think it's right

    As said I'm doing the barrels and pistons anyway, relap valves, new pushed tubes gasket set ECT,

    Anything else I should be doing

    Thanks for the incoming advise 20220221_105537.jpg
     
  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Your oil pressure figures don't make sense. Warming it up on the drive isn't up to temp, you need to take it out for a 20 minute thrash. Do you have an oil temp gauge?

    100 (ok)-120 (good) psi for a type-1 engine.
     
    snotty likes this.
  3. Adrian1975

    Adrian1975 Supporter

    Thanks for the reply, ok I will take it for A run in a bit , no i dont have oil temp gauge,

    The compression figures should rise with the new barrels and pistons ?
     
  4. Adrian1975

    Adrian1975 Supporter

    Are the cold oil pressure figures ok or are they not important?
     
  5. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Oil pressure of 30psi at 2.5k revs is okay but it doesn’t make sense that the pressure increases when the oil is warm. Removing the engine to change B&Ps without splitting the crankcase and at least replacing all the bearing doesn’t make sense to me either.
     
    snotty likes this.
  6. Adrian1975

    Adrian1975 Supporter

    Ok after an 1/2 thrashing reading are as follows

    @800 rpm= 5psi
    @2500 rpm= 22-26psi ish fluctuating gauge

    Hope this helps
     
  7. Adrian1975

    Adrian1975 Supporter

    That's what I'm trying to ascertain, i don't mind doing the bearings although I've never split a case before , would I be buy standard size replacement bearings or would I be waiting untill it's split and seeing what is already fitted, I believe it may have been reconditioned in the past
     
  8. You would need to measure up once the case has been split: has the crank been ground, has the case been line-bored, has the end web been cut? Need those three measurements.

    PS Your oil pressure isn’t great (assuming the gauge is reasonably accurate).
     
    77 Westy likes this.
  9. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    You would have to wait until it's split to see what is already fitted.
     
  10. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    The engine is leaking oil, the oil pressure isn’t good, a plug Helicoil has fallen out and there is excessive difference between highest and lowest cylinder compression.
    It needs more than a refresh, it’s time for a full overhaul IMHO.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2022
    snotty, Lasty and Meltman like this.
  11. Adrian1975

    Adrian1975 Supporter

    Looks like the engines comming out tomorrow then,

    In all honesty is it going to be fairly straightforward, swapping bearing like for like or is it much more involved than that,
     
    77 Westy likes this.
  12. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Impossible to know until you’ve opened it up, checked the condition, dimensions and clearances.
     
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  13. Depends what state the case is in.

    You will need to pull the timing gears off the crank to change the no 3 bearing. Also worth changing the big end bearings (after a measure up). And cam bearings.
     
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  14. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    First thing to check is the end float. If it’s excessive and the casing needs an align bore, new bearings and crank regrind it might be cheaper to buy a replacement short engine.
     
    Barry76, snotty and Adrian1975 like this.
  15. matty

    matty Supporter

    If you start taking the engine apart you will almost always end doing a full rebuilding including having machining done.

    Is this something you you want to do? If Not look at a new exchange engine or just fit you B&P and enjoy the van until you start having real problems.
     
    Purple, Lasty, 77 Westy and 2 others like this.
  16. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    If you fit new B&Ps to a tired bottom end you might only get to the end of the road before it fails. Or it may last years. How lucky are you?

    For me oil leaks, a damaged head, poor oil pressure and poor compression are real problems.
     
    nicktuft, Adrian1975 and snotty like this.
  17. Adrian1975

    Adrian1975 Supporter

    What should the oil pressure readings be ?
    I assumed the compression would improve with the new b+p

    How far out are my readings?
     
  18. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    IMO you want at least 10psi at idle and around 40psi running. What does your manual say?
    Yes new b&p will improve your compression but it's quite possible just new rings would do the same. As you're committing to stripping it down your best approach would be to do just that and try not to pre-judge anything* - it could save you a bundle of cash. :)

    * Apart from the end float which you should measure before you do anything else once the engine is out - as others have said, if your endfloat is irreparable you might want to consider an exchange engine so it would be daft to strip it further or buy any parts.
     
  19. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    As a rule of thumb oil pressure should 10psi per 1,000 revs. But an engine in good condition with cold oil will easily have a much higher pressure.

    Cylinder pressures should be within 10% of each other. Your highest pressure is at the low end of acceptable but an engine will run with much lower pressure – 87psi is getting there.
     
    Barry76 likes this.
  20. Adrian1975

    Adrian1975 Supporter

    Thanks for reply,

    Sorry for misunderstanding ( being thick), are you saying if the endfloat is acceptable just fit the b&p or strip and fit bearings only if the endfloat is acceptable
     

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