Engine refresh

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Adrian1975, Feb 21, 2022.

  1. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    20w50 might be better in a tired engine and leak less. Leave the SAE30 for the air compressor or lawnmower.
     
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  2. Here y'go. Wasn't bad quality (same as a stock one, in fact).

    https://www.machine7.com/product.php?xProd=229

    As @Zed said, if you're ordering shells for the big ends, you'll need to measure the diameter of the crank pins just in case they've been ground in the past.
     
  3. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Or read the size off the shells. :)
     
    77 Westy likes this.
  4. Far too easy!
     
  5. matty

    matty Supporter

    Don’t look to close at the heads as they will be cracked then you will talk yourself into new ones
     
  6. Adrian1975

    Adrian1975 Supporter

    Sproggy4830, nicktuft, Zed and 2 others like this.
  7. Dubs

    Dubs Sponsor supporter extraordinaire

    :rolleyes:
     
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  8. Might be one of the reasons the plug hole has been helicoiled
     
  9. Engine or owner ?
     
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  10. Adrian1975

    Adrian1975 Supporter

    Not bad , jet wash tomorrow 20220222_180817.jpg
     
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  11. Adrian1975

    Adrian1975 Supporter

    So , with want we have discovered today and the fact I'm going to remove the b&p , so just left with the case, I'm going to replace the bigends as suggested, what are the chance of replacing the other bearings at the same time without causing myself any real issues,
    Would they be like for like or not,

    Tia
     
  12. If you’re splitting it to do the crank bearings it’s worth measuring the crank journals to make sure they are within wear limit. Obviously they will be different to standard if it’s been ground previously.
    Personally if you’re doing the mains I would do the big ends & cam bearings also.
     
    Adrian1975 likes this.
  13. Are you going to split the case?
     
  14. Adrian1975

    Adrian1975 Supporter

    I had no real plan to, but as it all seems good would it be wise to, or just do the b&p to raise the compression and leave well alone, I'm going to replace the oil pump if needed so will have to slacken the bolts, I would like a reliable engine,
     
  15. Sorry just digested the whole thread. Seems your end float is well within spec & oil pressure is pretty much ok.
    A full rebuild would probably give you peace of mind now the engines out.
     
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  16. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    One thing leads to another doesn't it? You're doing the top end, you realise you can do the big ends - that only leaves the main and cam bearings and you've done a full refresh. Doing a refresh before the bearings are pounded out is the best approach if you have the will. On the other hand if you only use it for 2-3,000 miles per year that's only 20-30,000 miles in ten years and likely to go on even longer as it is. I'm not helping am I? :D
     
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  17. Adrian1975

    Adrian1975 Supporter

    That's food for thought, I doubt I even do 3000 miles per year,

    If I was to split the case and replace like for like would I gain anything at all apart from piece of mind,

    If the other parts are not worn is it really worth it?
     
  18. If you’ve wrestled the pistons off, you might as well split the case. I would. Will need to get some extra toolage. Whip the flywheel off first. Then get your calipers and have a good measure up inside.
     
  19. Adrian1975

    Adrian1975 Supporter

    What extra tools would I need?
     

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