That's the rub - you can't know unless you split the case and look! I've only done one full refresh in similar circumstances and afterwards it was a lovely quiet engine but I have no idea what it was like before. It was made from a bottom end like yours - in spec, and 10,000 mile top end from an engine with a snapped crankshaft. All new bearings, new rings, ground the valves. it certainly didn't do any harm and was the smoothest running type-1 I've ever come across though I couldn't say why as I'd never even looked inside an engine before. It took me months as I acquired micrometers and such and generally sweated, wondering if I knew enough or had missed some obvious flaw but it did turn out great. You seem to be well tooled up and mechanically practical so I'd go for it.
Something to get the flywheel off, then back on again. Something to press a new oil seal in. Some means off pulling the crank gears off, so you can change the no 3 crank bearing. Snap ring pliers. Decent torque wrench that goes up to about 45 ft lbs for putting the case back together. A tube of Curil T. If you’re checking the ring gaps, a pair of piston ring pliers is handy. That’s about it.
Ok I have all of that, except the piston ring pliers, I have piston ring compressor, Will a 3 legged puller remove the no 3 bearing?
Basic pliers you can get from eBay for about a fiver. The cheap ones work well enough. Puller…maybe, or heat…possibly You could have a borrow of my “proper” puller if you pay the postage.
Perfect! You might need a smaller torque wrench for doing the case stuff up (nothing above about 25 ft lbs.
Bearing puller might work, but probably not. You need something slimmer to squeeze behind the cam gear. There’s not much room.
Or maybe it would. See pic halfway down on this thread... https://www.thelatebay.com/index.ph...-bay-today-thread.55126/page-744#post-1829487
Oh, ok as I have one of those as well, I may take you up on your offer , I won't be able to do any more tomorrow as missus has dentist, Thanks for everyone's help and advise so far, I will need more I'm off to work now, hi, ho,hi,ho
No not at all, as I said I'm an ex mechanic/fitter but never done proper engine work, always out sourced it, I've been an ex mechanic for 15yrs now but still do general service work for the local community, Most of the gear but defiantly no idea
I've managed to get the gears off with a three leg puller ok. Just took an angle grinder to the feet to slim them a bit on one set. Bit of heat to the gogs and off they pop. (Unless you forget the snap ring is still on there in which case they just dont move..☺)
As an update I've split the case, now do I replace the bearings like for like please see pics of numbers ECT, My 1 concern is one of the bearing is very pitted, but the crank is unmarked , please see pic, Any thing I should now be doing or worrying about? Numbers on bearings- Main =uo.5u25 Camshaft- std- 13-2369 Big end= l5-0.25 I don't know what any of the above number mean Cheers
Just change the lot. Give the crank journals a polish with grey Scotchbrite. Someone on here might be able to decipher the bearing markings, otherwise you’ll need to get your calipers out and measure up (including the flywheel end web). Do the bearings you’ve got still crush down nicely into the case?
The camshaft bearings are tight The crankshaft bearings locate nice with a little left to right movement, Bearing closest to the flywheel" the one that pulls off " is nice and tight and has no left to right movement Big ends are nice and tight
Sounds good. Means your case has some life left. Worth checking the split centre main by bolting the case halves to spec and shining a small torch behind where the two centre main case halves meet. No glimmer of light behind them is good news. I’ve never found a reference for the bearing markings (although your cam bearings likely to be standsrd). Best to measure up to be sure, if noone on here knows.
The one with the missing chunks has been starved of oil at some point. Same happened to me on a bad build after a a thousand miles.
Ok, so when replacing the bearings will it be ok after that ,I can blow through all the oil galleries with the compressor to make sure every thing is clear, How do I go about measuring the relevant parts for the new bearings
