It would pay you to rig up a mechanical oil pressure gauge to check that you really do have low oil pressure because if the gauge is the fault and the pressure is actually ok, you may only have rings and the spark plug to sort out.
Ok thanks, I will see if I can borrow a reliable gauge, same process as today 1/2 hour driving to get it up to temp
You'd find something out cold as you have those numbers and it's only the gauge you're checking - I rigged up a heath robinson T to check mine so I could have them both operating at the same time. It was a right bodge - mine's a type-4 and the sender is on the end of a brake pipe to start with, so this lot was on the end of that! Local air hose place for the win, they thought it was so funny he only charged me £2. They like a challenge.
You spotted my cheapo gauge I see! Pretty much what I had but I wanted to see them both working together.
I know you were worried and found it hard to sleep, so I thought I would update my readings Cold 10psi@1000 rpm 40psi@2500 rpm Hot 10psi@800 rpm Hits 40psi drops to 30psi if held @ 2500 rpm I hope this is getting better Should the oil pressure increase all the time e.g higher at 3000 rpm, higher again at 4000rpm ECT Or does it plateau Thanks
Well, that's more like it. Is that the same pressure gauge and if so, why have the reading improved? Whatever - if you think those are reasonably accurate I'd be happy with that. The hot idle is a big improvement and so is the hot 2500 rpm. Both in my view have gone from ooer to I would up the idle speed to stock 850 rpm or even 900 rpm. Yes it would plateau but not before it reached approx 40psi. Whether it got there through high revs or tighter bearing wouldn't effect the pressure it plateaued at.
Those readings don’t sound bad at all, assuming they’re reasonably accurate. So…some more good news. Oil pressure goes up and down with rpm, but at cruising revs should stay pretty constant. The pressure relief valve should limit it to about 3bar/42psi. If you’re having a refresh, could change the oil pump rather than trying to clean it up. For about £20, Shadek do a reasonable stock pump replacement.
Yes new gauge, I managed to " borrow" a gauge from work last night, (we call it "relocating an asset to an alternate location" So what do you think, Engine out Top new b&p, lap valves general check over Is there anything I should defo change , so I can order the parts Cheers I'm gonna by a lottery ticket aswell
For the sake of a few quid you might replace the big end bearing shells which can be done without splitting the case. Personally I would do that as a matter of course because the last thing you want is your new top end increased power to pound out some old big end bearings plus the shells are cheap and the it only takes an hour or so. You could replace the pump, but to do that you must loosen the case bolts around it with the possibility of introducing leaks. On the other hand you can remove it's top and inspect it very easily then make a decision.
I don't want to answer, as I can feel my world about to topple, For this test I was using 15w40 mineral, with a mix of sae30, it had sae 30 in it but it leaks so as I was taking the engine out anyway I chucked the 15w40 in to put the oil level right for these tests
That's great Where is the best place / make to purchase I also can't find the shadek pump that @snotty mentioned
Give your heads a good look over if you’re going to reuse them. I’d replace the helicoil with a solid insert - helicoils always seem to glue themselves to the plug. If you’re keen, change the exhaust valves. As others have said, if you’re doing the top end, might want to change the big end bearing shells. Theoretically possible without splitting the case. That’s it. Check your ring gaps on the new pistons, measure your deck height when the barrels are in. Might need to shim them up.
Look at the pump first. You can't order the shells until you take one out to see what size they are. Not just theoretical, I've done it a few times, it's quite difficult to loose anything inside the case as the cam is in the way. Exhaust valves as snotty suggests - again inspect them first, if the end of the stems look dished, replace them. If they look like new, obviously there's no point. Inspect, inspect, inspect!
