I appreciate that, and I don't understand it either, I'm even questioning myself, would an engine run with 1mm valve clearances ? In the event I haven't found any thing I can only build it back up, hope for the best and keep my fingers crossed
Yes of course, the valves lift approx 9mm so you still had 8mm lift but if would be clattery. Not the best approach. lol
It's not but It's all I can do, I will check everything, as last time, but maybe be more vigilant, if thats possible,
One thing you can do that few do is to measure the cam base circle diameter and the dimension from the base to the nose. This gives you the lobe lift (not valve lift) of the cam as installed and can be really useful in the future to determine if there is cam wear. And measuring each lobe is an indication of how accurate the cam has been manufactured or if one lobe has worn more than another.
Ok so it's pretty much back together now, will finish it tomorrow, install on Wednesday Question regarding oil, I purchased 5ltrs of pistoneze , 2.5ltrs was scrap after the meltdown, as it's now rebuilt with new piston rings, new cam bearings, crank bearings, Con rod bearings, I will of course change the oil after 100 ish miles once everything is bedded in but can I use a cheaper oil for this and then use the pistoneeze after that, if so any recommendations, easy to get would be good, halfords, euro carparts, ECT Don't I sound optimistic 100+ miles Cheers
I’d use running in oil for the first 500 miles then change. Wait, it’s a Type 1, change after 100 miles. EDIT: Or maybe less than 100 miles unless you’re certain all the debris has been flushed out.
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-69293-millers-oils-classic-running-in-oil-30.aspx Note: Run engine at peak torque to ensure maximum bedding-in of piston rings. Do not use high performance oils before the bedding-in process is complete.
I used that too and very pleased with how well my rings seal. I have a rock hard chrome top ring but it worked a treat. I did a lot of miles on mine but I have a filter and didn't blow mine up before it was built + it spent a week in a huge parts washer going round and round with core plugs out. I hope you remembered to flush your cooler out just to be sure.
Ahh bollo#s, excuse my french, at least its only the thermostat, fan housing, alternator, that I need to remove , Can i flush that out with water aswell
I'd fill it with brake cleaner and give it a good shake, but I usually have a 5L can of that to hand - good stuff, leaves no residue. Water? er, no not for me, not convinced water would get the oil all out and the crud will be in the oil. It's just belt and braces to clean it out, there won't be any big bits, but it's the small stuff that gets embedded in the bearings and grinds - hopefully not too much piston ring/cylinder bits and just ali dust... mostly. If there was a sheen on the oil when you dropped it out, there's metal in the oil and it went around the cooler too. Better safe than sorry is my motto.
On the oil cooler thing, I expected to I've got plenty of brake cleaner, was 5ltrs but used some, will do that tomorrow cheers
They mean load on the engine; accelerate and decelerate to get load reversals on the piston rings, this pushes the rings against the bores to bed them in.
Ideally, if you had a nice hill somewhere where you could “drive” it up (without pinging) and then coast down the other side
If you look at an engine graph with HP and torque - torque peaks before horse power. I am guessing here but say peak torque on a T1 is say 2500 rpm and power is 4000
Ok so the engine is back in and purring like a kitten, How can I upload a video of it for your expert ears, I'm kinda scared to drive now just in case, sounds more positive than the last, I've a made no carb adjustments, only thing I've done is set strobe timing to 7.5 btdc
