You’d get half a crankcase in the dishwasher. Heads fit easily, when I say easily, it is when there isn’t anyone looking.
I'm sure that plug just got battered closed. Sounds like your 0.8 gap was user error too. It's not completely unheard of for a piston to fall apart but it did look like it had battered into the head - what state are your big and little ends like? Did the conrod star to unscrew itself? How did that piston smash into the head (if it did)?
Con rod bolts were still tight, the little end bearings are undamaged and still fit nicely on the piston,
When I rebuilt an engine I was able to borrow a portable parts washer and spent a couple of hours pushing cleaning solution back and forward through oil galleries and breaking up flakes that appeared in oilways.. my engine block (£51 eBay) had water in it so flakes of corrosion popping out. Had a full flow filter so smaller bits were going to stop soon in the filter. When the engine blew up ( valve broke) the filter stopped any pieces going past it . Your plugs say rich mixture, melting was over advanced timing..
Lol Actually, using 1641cc pistons and barrels bump your cr 0,5 point. This, and replacing old and tired b&p with new ones, make feeling a 1641 more powerfull over a 1585cc Counterparts, they got thinner cylinders.
Citrus; it disguises any residual ‘oily’ odours that might arouse suspicion. But timing is crucial to avoid being caught in the act.
By the way, I have discovered that heating up the cam and distributor gears on the kitchen hob is frowned upon by some. I don’t know why; the extractor fan removed the smoke.
I remember years ago dad getting caught with a can of grease on the hob with his motorbike chain in it me and my brother were sent outside
Something else I got into trouble with – rattle can spraying in the kitchen, the overspray was still there when we moved years later.
Ok everything is clean and tidy, all New bearing and rings have arrived, new gasket set, Replacement head rebuilt, pre owned 1600 pistons rehoned and rings, Couple of questions, What should the ring gap be? Obviously check deck height, am i looking for approx 1.5mm Would my endfloat have changed? Anything I've missed? Should the pressure relief valves fall out/easy move if the spring has been removed, (mine were very tight to remove from the top, once started they moved fine) Its amazing how little there is in these engines , and I still messed it up
Bearing clearances and ring gaps will be in your manual; I don’t know what they are for a Type 1. Deck height between 1mm and 1.6mm is okay but you should also check the compression ratio. The endfloat must be checked anyway. Have you found any damage in the valve train? Pushrod ends, cups in the followers and rockers, adjusting screws etc. The relief valves should slide smoothly in the bores, no tight spots. They’re simple engines but they still go wrong, mainly because many of the new parts are not as good as they should be and people chuck them together without checking anything.
Ok thanks, I will check the book, as for the pressure relief valves I had to tap a screwdriver in to it to get it to move, once free it moved fine it was as if the spring has wedged if in place, No damage was found, a couple of tappets screw were a bit flattened? A few people have Said it was most likely the timing was out, if that was the case then the actual engine rebuild was fine, it was tge set up afterwards that was at fault, This is what I've been told, I don't know if it's right or not
