Bell Crank or Hex Bar?

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by F_Pantos, Sep 15, 2020 at 10:42 AM.

  1. The hole I used was originally threaded to hold the P clip for the steel servo pipe. @77 Westy has put a tinware screw in the hole. ;)
    IMG_20200916_141206.jpg

    Here's a picture that shows how that location lines up with the only hole in the gearbox hanger. Left and down a bit is the original fitting which is underneath the hanger. The height is more crucial if you fit the linkage gearbox side of the carbs.
    IMG_20200916_141906.jpg
     
    snotty likes this.
  2. Given I don't plan to take the engine out the CSP hex bar is starting to look more and more attractive.

    I am off to look at a friend's CSP hex bar this weekend. I will report back with photos :thumbsup:
     
  3. F_Pantos, snotty and zedders like this.
  4. Noooooo...
     
  5. Let's be honest, we've all done it differently.
    To get at the back of that tin is relatively simple and if you were to fit this type of linkage it's "just one of those things".
    Man up. ;)
    Remove the top part of the oil filler.
    Remove the two gearbox hanger bolts.
    Jack under engine anywhere central.
    Remove the 4 engine bar/hanger bolts
    Pivot the engine down just enough, not too much, to get fingers/spanner the other side. Lower than that disconnect the gearshoft rear coupler. Mind any fuel pipes don't get stretched. :)
     
  6. Problem for me is I don't have a hatch :( So the bell crank will need a long neck to get set up right and when you then mentioned moving the cable...Well...... Given all this, then looking in more detail at a CSP hex kit seems like worthwhile research. I don't intend to do this more than once ;)
     
  7. We should have let you buy it before telling you about the cable.
     
  8. I just remembered I had seen this https://www.limebug.com/product/view/2128/sync-link-throttle-linkage-ida-idf-delortto.. :lol:



    Or how to get rid of wonky push/pull rods and go properly connected.

    Or in DIY/mimimal changes land having seen the junky hex bar linkage, I can begin to imagine using a tube with ball bearing races in it at each end, rather than a hex bar with an attempt at a bearing at each end.. ... And recycling bits of that CB Performance linkage to fit around it, reducing the problem to stuff you can reach from the back..
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2020 at 5:57 PM
    F_Pantos likes this.
  9. You wouldn't, would you? :eek::eek:
     
    Mark Darby likes this.
  10. For your own good. :)
     
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  11. To be fair, I have only heard good things about the CSP hex bar, so I will fact find at the weekend:)
     
  12. That screw used to be for a P clamp for the fuel hose when I had the hex bar linkage, now the clamp is where the throttle cable used to be. Where the screw is fitted is too high for the throttle cable with the bell crank where CSP intended- close to the bulkhead.
     
    zedders likes this.
  13. I have a hatch but the only time I open it is to take a pic for someone, carb adjustment I do from the engine bay. And I don’t have a long neck, or long arms.

    I’m beginning to see why CSP say their Type 4 bell crank can’t be fitted to a Type 4. A ‘trivially easy’ modification can be made far more difficult than it needs to be.
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2020 at 8:51 PM
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  14. F_Pantos likes this.
  15. Haha, true, well nothing wrong with dreaming, it's free of charge.

    Problem is, this can of worms might mean new filters, depends how far I go. The CB stuff is all integrated, you see? I suppose I could reuse the CB stuff and have those ugly linkage mount bases just sitting there doing nothing but holding the filters in place or, even get the bases machined to remove the towers, so they are flat. I need to look at the CSP hex bar in real life, and if I like that solution, then I reckon those bases will foul the new linkage mounts.

    Lots of thinking to do....

    I must PM @zedders and get a description of how to move the cable over, one that I can understand.
     
  16. I went for boggo Chinese tin filter housings from VWH for my Dells, and they’re fine. I squirt the filters with K&N oil to make them nice’n’purple.

    If you have got Dells and flat bottom filters, you’ll likely need spacers to get the filter base clear of the bulge where the fuel unions go in (CB have cast cutouts). CSP do them.
     
  17. Could always flog your CB linkage on fleaBay...
     
    F_Pantos likes this.
  18. Yeah, but if it's the ones I found, did you see the price :eek:
     

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