You can rotate and/or flip those levers to all 4 positions so setting them up to be pulled as as easy as anything else. Having had both, the centre linkage has too many advantages for me to ever have a hex one again. The main one as I've mentioned before is being able to almost dismantle the carb in situ if anything gets blocked without disturbing the linkage.
I’ve tried both in the past (CB hexbar). It just has too many points of potential play and faff. Centremount is trivially easy.
It is said that if you leave a ball of wool in the middle and set the timing just so it will knit a scarf at tickover. It also makes tea.
Another CSP bell crank here too, yes it fits ..I borrowed Zedders front mounted bracket idea to make reaching the adjuster easier.. carbs were dismantled to rebuild anyway so just built them with modified levers on the front too. Also added a small pulley wheel to guide accelerator cable so it doesn't have to turn so sharply coming through tinware. Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
Here's a recent one.. with added pulley..I'll dig out some more and add later.. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
If you'd used the hole in the tin about 3" at 2 o'clock from the one you did use, you wouldn't need the pulley, though I do like the pulley.
There is a hole already in the right place. If you could see the other side of the tin the original cable location has a pressed on fitting to catch the flexible cable outer. You need to provide something like that for the new location or the cable will saw through the tin. I made something from a brake line fitting IIRC. This would be rather difficult to achieve with the engine fitted.
Engine out? This is getting to be a big job . I'll have a crawl underneath and see if I can move the cable, or not, with the engine in.
The other hole is about where a T1 throttle cable comes through. Looking at the pictures, another route would be fit the bell crank off centre and use two different-length rods. Provided you dont go too far across it shouldnt make much difference.
Yeah, I wonder if you could mount the bracket bolt side of the engine, rather than nut side and change the rods, can't be too hard to get new rods.
You won't see much if anything from underneath because it routes through the gearbox hanger. The place with the hole that mr westy and I used is a rare place alighned with holes in the hanger that just happens to be spot on the right location for the linkage. The bracket is fitted exactly in the centre I don't understand your nut/bolt thing but really, no don't chop it up or fit to one side it won't open the carbs evenly and you'll be back to square one
Bit of a buggar of a job if it's engine out just to change the linkage And don't say "it's only 4 bolts", cos it's a lot more work than that and you know it
There wasn’t a hole in the correct position on mine but it’s easy to drill one. But, as zedders says you also need a guide for the cable and I just moved mine from the original to the new hole. Easy when the tin is off but near impossible with the tin in place because the other side is against the gearbox hanger – if you have one. If you can reach you could use one of these: https://www.carbuilder.com/us/cable-adjuster-m6-steel
