The All New, New "What have you done to your Bay today" thread.

Care to elaborate.

 

With zero confidence in what i’m about to elaborate...

If the panels are wired in parallel the amps become cumulative.
If wired in series then the volts become cumulative.

Wiring then is determined by what volts or amps a controller can handle.

Example of the Sterling BBS1230 is that it can handle 31v and 30a. The panels are approx 23v but if placed in parallel that doesn’t increase, but the amps would add up to about 20a, which is ok.
So the BBS couldn’t handle 3 panels @ 23v each in series, as that would be 69v.

Don’t quote me on any of that apart from the opening statement.


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65C is pretty low, panels on the roof will easily reach that in the sun here. I was hoping the ‘shingle’ construction with no busbars would have a higher operating range. I’ve just asked them if permanent damage would occur if the panels were exposed to higher temperatures for several hours and have been told the panels would only lose efficiency.

 

fitted some hella spots

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All the cool kids have them

 

Ah, I see. So it’s not merely the atmospheric temperature then.

Daft as it is to read about pouring water over and smothering solar panels with blankets to protect from the sun, at least they are suggesting it wouldn’t be catastrophic with the shingle ones.

Workable for you then?

I’ve looked at dozens of panels and the only mention of temperature ratings was on one of them. -40 to 85•, so as you say, quite a bit more range, but no idea of long term effect.

I hope high temperatures, despite a drop in efficiency temporarily, don’t actually take a long-term toll. It would be nice to have just one thing to not worry and faff about.


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Took it to Kwik Fit to get the front toe adjusted this morning...

All I really wanted was to borrow their tracking system but had to pace up and down outside like an expectant father while they did the adjustments. They weren't that keen on reading from the Bentley manual that I took with me.

They told me they couldn't adjust the driver's side front wheel by just adjusting the passenger side tie rod. I found this http://www.type2.com/dakhlia/images/VW-44.5.jpg and suggested they may have to press the drag link off the steering drop arm (not sure if that's right - Bentley doesn't mention it). They split the boots at both ends of the drag link but they did then replace both boots and the toe is now properly adjusted for the first time in at least 21 years (went from -0.35 and -0.43 to 0.06 and 0.14). To be fair they got there in the end and were pretty good.

Has anyone switched out the fixed driver's side tie rod for an adjustable tie rod? I went with stock but in hindsight wonder whether I should have put adjustable both sides for future wheel alignment. There must be a reason that only one tie rod is adjustable right?

 

It’s best to keep solar panels covered with a blanket, so they don’t overheat

 

Several of these attached to the eyelets should do it with style.


Another thing to remember to remove before driving off though.


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You are all mad !

 

Yes, you adjust the one adjustable one to get the difference you need, then you re centre the steering with the drag link adjustment.

These days its hard to get a non-adjustable tie rod, then its worth measuring up something easily measurable in the steering before you swap out the tie rod, and matching it exactly with the new one's adjusment.
Otherwise, you will find yourself putting the old one temporarily back in place, measuring then swapping to the new one and checking..

 

No, I would have totally avoided millions of confusing multi function LEDs and fitted a small graphical screen that uses words and pictures, and put maybe one more button on the front.
But Sterling always likes a million blinking LEDs. Their chief designer must come from 1985..

At the moment, a VSR and an MPPT solar cell controller is a lot less complex and will work for most people's needs.

Even that B2B still has the issue that in order to be able to persuade an alternator to pump more current, it has to drop the voltage on the starter battery until the alternator output current picks up. At which point it is no longer charging the starter battery . Or you program it to make sure the starter battery reaches the fully charge point, then it starts with B2B charging. .. almost like a VSR..
With the classic VSR, first the starter battery has to charge up to the high voltage trip point on the VSR, then it switches on to transfer power to the other battery. You dont get as much current transferred but your bank balance is healthier.

The fact that B2B says EURO6 on it is another sign of how they could have done it better. On our buses, if you fiddle with the current coming out of the alternator DF connection, you can make it bump up the output voltage. More modern alternators with CAN bus around will just imagine you have a fault if you do that. Sterling do sell a Digital Alternator regulator that does this fiddling - its only about £100.

 

We have six 2.4m x 1.8m panels on our roof feeding two 800 litre storage tanks for hot water and heating, this morning when I checked the panel temp was 75C, ambient was about 24C. I haven’t measured the solar panel temp on the bus but I would not be surprised if they reach 85C.

I’m tempted, they’re big enough to cover the inevitable mess that will result cutting off the existing panels and they’re a bit cheaper for me buying them in Europe. I bet you love Brexit.

 

Fitted my new Spax shocks from
Creative Engineering.
Also fitted the second hand alternator pully I picked up at Tatton park vw show.

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Did your studs straighten up?

 

I managed to get them straighter but they are still a little bent.
I did wonder about heating them to bend em but wasn't sure if that would make the metal weaker
Then I thought I could heat em bend em straight then quench with cold water.
Then my brain hurt....
So I bent em using the jack.

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I fitted Spax back in September 19, better than what was on previously, but I am not sure they're a game changer on a lowered Bus that I'd hoped they would be. I'd be very interested in your opinion on them, compared to what was there before? Thanks.

 

I haven't taken the bus out yet
So I'll let u know
My bolt to bolt measurement was 340mm
So I ordered the CE375
I'm hoping that once set up they will be fine
I just have to play with the 28 different settings.

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I found mine worked best when winding the adjusters all the way up, someone else on here running Spax also told me they did the same, a Bus is a heavy thing, I guess.