So Rear wheel Bearings inners outers and seals what make can you trust ??

Wouldent the freezer be a better bet?

 

Big!

You'll be fine drifting them out, and in if you're careful. As previously mentioned, I had to give my outers a real smack with a bearing driver to get them in.

 

Interested to see how all this goes as I'm about to do both sides on mine - just cannot undo the hub nut, again using a 3/4" socket with a 4ft scaffold pole - it wont budge!

 

Same thing?

Oh hang on, that's why I get milk lollies by accident!

 

I drilled it, I suspects it was original i.e. never been off, rust and stiction makes me suspect the holding torque is way over 250ft/lbs.

It's just taken me 2 hours to get the inner oil seal out, rust is not helping.

 

Okidoke - my bearing adventure is ongoing, bear with me.....

To get the original bearing out I had to use a drift - I have a large round tipped one (drift, you filthy beast) that did the job, but the inner ones were a complete arse pain to remove - I tidied the outside edge behind the oil seal with a dremel as it was very corroded.

So - here is my bearing diagram (forgive the accuracy, we have zero drawing software and I drew it on a piece of paper (google it, those that are unsure what that is)) a bit like Issigonis and the suspension drawing on a napkin. Well, other than I have none of his genius, it's not a drawing of suspension and not on a paper napkin it's uncanny how alike the two events were.



A - is the bearing seat that stands proud in the hub.
B - the roller bearing
C - the roller bearing inner race
D - the spacer
E - inner bearing, ball bearings as opposed to roller bearings
F - the circlip recess
G - the oil seal recess

I can see how the inner bearing position is governed by the circlip and raised section in the hub, from what I can see it basically only fits one way.

Where my issue starts is the outer roller bearing and it's location - the area in the diagram A, which looks like where the bearing outer race sits is wider that the bearing itself (about 3 mm) - should I simply press the bearing in so that the outside edge of the outer race is flush with the step for the oil seal? Or should it be located midway on that raised area in the hub?

Next question - I am guessing that the outer roller bearings inner race is wider that the outer race to allow for heat distortion, is this correct?

When reading about bearings being loose to allow for heat, I take it that means that the play between inner and outer race has some tolerance - from what I can see, how tight the hub nut is has no bearing on this, is that correct?

The spacer width, as long as it sits correctly, only affects the drum to back plate distance - i.e. if it's been crushed over time, the only thing affected is the drum hitting the back plate - I can't see what else it affects, again, is this wrong?

Finally - I know the last thing I want is for the outer races to be rotating in any way, but, to press them in should I use a lubricant or simply leave them dry?

 

outer races should be oiled to aid insertion and prevent corrosion , they should be tight enough not to rotate

yep bearing flush with oil seal step

inner bearing is not wider to allow for heat distortion

There will be a very small amout of play in bearing ,but not alot .. this has no effect on how tight the nut is done as the nut pulls the shaft tight on the two inner bearing parts and the spacer .....

 

Really appreciate your reply, you've confirmed a couple of thoughts and given be better thinking on inserting method, thanks buddy!