So Rear wheel Bearings inners outers and seals what make can you trust ??

Just so people are aware - I am going to fire up the compressor and get all thumpy thumpy gun on the nut - have to say, very disconcerting being able to spin the road wheel whilst it's chocked and on the ground fully - garage floor is painted, but it's hardly a glass surface.

If that fails, I shall drill then grind the nut off, as advised above.

In the meantime, I shall be lighting joss sticks and throwing positive shapes in the general area of the garage.

 

Got you - so the one on the left should be relatively easy to find, just check quality/supplier/country of origin - the one on the right is the VW specific one and thus hard to find?

 

yes ..... 6207 is a bog standard bearing you can buy any where any make ....... the one on the right is 30 years old and no longer made !!!

 

So what's the number for the one on the right? If I were to search for one (see if I can beat Greece for far flung corner of the world).

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/308-203-520228-FAG-New-Single-Row-Ball-Bearing/131224262367?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20131017132637&meid=8003929332184484600&pid=100033&prg=20131017132637&rk=2&rkt=4&sd=291149837972#ht_0wt_0

correct part numbers but without seeing the bearing you couldn`t be sure

 

Just took delivery from Custom & Commercial - fair play, only ordered them late yesterday.

They came as a kit, in a Febi box £32 approx - you get two oil seals, split pin, and both bearings.

The roller bearing is made by INA it would seem:



And the more available standard bearing is by Febi themselves - is being made in Germany a sign of quality?



On a less brighter note - the hub nut has withstood full on attack with 120psi on my compressor and favourite (only) impact wrench.

Dremmel is the way forward for that mofo.

 

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Watch your axle threads. Hard to see 'em, and easy to grind into. Ask me how I know this ...

 

you didnt

 

The luck I'm having I'll probably lose a finger or manage to cut through the fuel tank or something equally crap.

 

have you got a six foot breaker ? scaffold pole ?

 

I've got a 4ft one - the handle off of a jack - which is now bent.

I weigh 220 pounds, at the end of a 4ft bar I am applying considerable more than the 250ft/lb this thing is supposedly torqued to.

 

scaffold 6ft n jump if you have too it will go im certain ,hold velly tight please

 

Okidoke - I reasoned that even at £4.99 (scene tax) for a new nut, it's still cheaper than the damage I could probably do myself, or anything nearby, jumping up and down on 6ft breaker bar.

So I took @lhu1281 's advice and drilled it off, rather then ground it off.

Technique I used was to drill with small bit parallel with the stub axle, a couple of mill off the thread, then do a 90 degrees down wards near the hub, all approximate rather than spot on - at one of the thinner parts of the nut. Then I went progressively bigger with the drill bits and finally split it with a chisel.

It was on mega tight. The cock.

 

i was hoping we might get a nice pic of you jumping up n down thats all well done you now need a 6ft scaffold pole ta do it up

 

I'll use a spot of maths to do it up - my understanding is I need the value of me, desired torque value, gravity and that gives me a distance to stand on the breaker bar - then nip it up to the next hole on the castle nut - thus making a joke of any accuracy with torque settings!

 

pic

 

The traditional method: out with bathroom scales, hold end of 3ft bar, push or pull until you're 6 stone lighter or heavier. 252 lb/ft presactly. Then round to the next castellation. Then do a little Roger Milla style shimmy

 

This methodology illustrates why VW classed rear hub removal as a base workshop operation. The availability of bathroom scales in the Western Desert or indeed any other distant front was deemed extremely unlikely .....