So Rear wheel Bearings inners outers and seals what make can you trust ??

As it transpires, the main FAG supplier, Shaeffer, is marginally closer to me than the main GSF aircooled parts supplier - I'll have a chat with them tomorrow if you still get stuck finding them.

Daft question, but can't find info anyway - are the bearing pressed in?

I'm only touching them as my backplate on the one side is shot through.

 

They're a kind of mild interference fit, from memory. Getting them in and out not a prob.

 

The only part of this I can see being an arse pain is the hub nut, and the handbrake cable part where it enters the backplate....or is there more that I am unaware of?

Also - as the manual of broken promises (Haynes) is scant on details - are there any guides anyone knows of (I have had a search)?

I'm thinking torque wrench settings etc. (e.g. is it like some french cars where you balls about torquing it, then have to quarter turn it back etc?

 

i would leave them moonee if that are ok , the schaeffer ones havnt got that good a reputation either i stink . i left mine in the end , theirs no movement when they have warmed up , found out via this thread and talking to those that know . are yours really bad ?? original ??

 

This really annoys me as heritage sold me rear wheel bearings as genuine vw ..... They even came in a vw box They obviously didn't say that new genuine vw bearings used on the last vw busses are Chinese rubbish . Shame on you heritage .....

Yes slight interference fit NOS fag ones are the only real bearings with fitting unless you want to put a modern double angular row wheel bearing in it

 

Should all be fairly straightforward. Make sure your handbrake is working before tackling the hub nuts. 3/4" socket and metre long breaker bar should shift them. I took the opportunity of replacing my handbrake cables and conduits, so just ripped the old ones out of the backplates. Need a big pair of circlip pliers to get the inner bearings out. Just follow your nose really...

Thinking back, I did have a slight prob getting the new outers into the hub, but only because their curved edges kept making them cock in the hub. A violent smack with a bearing driver seated them.

@brothernumberone /fletch may well cover this in his Haynes book (am away, do can't check at the mo). Buy it if you haven't got it (I'm not on commission ).

 

They've been on advisory for two MOT's in a row, and don't feel as good as the other side when freewheeling the wheel - I'll take a look.

I'm only messing primarily due to shot back plate.

I drive past GSF and the FAG distributors on the way to work.

@snotty - thanks for the info - might lob the hub in the freezer for a bit.

 

Yep I did cover it. It's an easy job, the races tap out, you don't need a press. Might be an idea to change the spacer between the bearings at the same, people often forget.
To be honest, the Haynes workshop manual covers it perfectly well anyway, it's what I used years ago when I first did one and includes the torque figures. Don't undo the nut to the nearest castellation, always go to 250lbs, then tighter until you can get the split pin in

 

Any idea where you can get a spacer? Not seen one on the sites I order bits from though wasn't paying attention of being honest.

Regarding Haynes, the text flips between Pre and post 1970 several times, would have been better seperating them I think.

Also, a picture paints a thousand words, and this idiot likes a thousand pictures!!

 

TBH, I'd bite the bullet and do the whole back end, funds permitting - 'tis what I did. Bearings, backplates, new wheel cylinders and flexis, new h/b cables, grease or replace the CVs and change your donuts if you feel like it. Then you don't have to look under the back of the blasted van again, ever...

PS Can't think why the spacers would need changing, but each to their own.

 

It's got recent flexies and cv joints, might price up new cables though, and the plan was new new brakes as I think I'd bent the drums (long story).

Will see how much fun I can have with scaffold pipe tomorrow, if it's not too bad I might do the full monty on the other side.

 

heritage do spacers ..... there is no need to change them ... earlier busses the spacer was a bit more substancial ......

 

Cheers, appreciate the guidance

 

Vw heritage stock new spacers. The workshop manual recommends they are changed when the bearings are done. I'd always assumed it's because the thickness of the spacer determines the amount of play in the taper bearing and any slight reduction in width increases the play, so the spacer gets very slightly squished by the 250ft/lbs of torque loaded onto it over the years and needs to be replaced?
But I'm no engineer

 

they are just roller bearings on the back though , no tapers , i think mork did fit some thou as an experiment .

 

I thought it was a ball bearing and a roller bearing on the rear? It's so long since I've done one I could be mixing my bearings up though.

 

I know that feeling of forgetfulness . Does no harm to change the spacers, I suppose, but I reused mine. The bearings are, as barney says, one big roller and one big ball race, so they're not "adjustable". If they're crap bearings, they'll have play in.

Dull technical fact: the reason folk normally use taper bearings on the front is that the bearing has to take forces from two directions, radial forces downwards (the weight of the van) and axial forces sideways (the steering). As the rollers are leaning at an angle, the amount of play between in the inner and outer races has to be tweaked up.

You can now bore people at parties with that, if you run out of things to say ...

 

Changed the spacers on mine as I had everything adrift for a bearing change. Working on the basis that the old spacers were probably original, the difference in length between old and new was something like 10thou. in old money. No discernible change was noticed after fitting.

 

yeh sorry it is ball and roller but ,it was you saying taper that i was referring , i no what you mean thou im always getting things upside down n round the right way

 

personally i `d rather reuse a 40 year old VW part as opposed to a new vw heritage who knows where its made part !!

they are a substancial hardened /ground spacer which i think you would struggle to shorten using brute force