Morks Type 4 1800 AP engine project

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by MorkC68, Nov 1, 2013.

  1. I had my case acid dipped ...came up like new ..one of those dissolves any thing organic things
     
  2. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    I must admit Im thinking of that myself, the closest to us is Dudley - Surface Processing Ltd. I wanted to have a bash myself & see what I could do!
     
  3. Case cleaning is one of the hardest parts of the job... I've got a big solvent based wash tank that gets the worst off, I also have a ultrasonic wash tank that I picked up second hand, but I need to get that fixed as the ultra sonic system isn't cavitating... But an awesome tool when it does work :thumbsup:
     
    MorkC68 likes this.
  4. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    @Paul Weeding this may sound like a daft question, does the type 4 crank have a gland nut, Ive been speccing some parts out and Ive found the gland nut needle roller bearing and the washer for the crank!
    What exactly am I looking for?
     
  5. It has 5 flange bolts that have a serration on the flange - better than a single nut/bolt

    Do you want a link to the bits that you need?

    The needle roller (pilot bearing) is fitted to the crank - this is why type 4 boxes have a longer input shaft :)
     
  6. What are the implications of mating a type 4 motor to a 1600 gearbox with the shorter input shaft?
    :)
     
  7. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Do we know someone who might have done that? There's about 1/2" difference so the GB input shaft would be properly supported in the needle bearing.
     
  8. Prepping for mucho rapido take offs at SCC ? want me to bring a spare GB ? :)
     
  9. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    I've got the five bolts safe Paul along with the washer and I think this is the needle bearing: http://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Sho..._T25_Crankshaft_Gland_Nut_Needle_Bearing.html

    I didn't think there was a nut but just wanted to be fully sure, thanks for replying! :thumbsup:
     
  10. You know someone who was about to do that...
    :)
     
  11. I have a spare. Also a spare engine...
    :)
     
    holmsen likes this.
  12. Okais,, go easy on the tools then,,it's all there :)
     
  13. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    And of course my typing should have read wouldn't be properly supported. I imagine the teeny bearings wouldn't last too long.
     
  14. 2 in 1 answer ;)

    Basically the bearing on the other end of the input shaft (behind the input shaft oil seal) doesn't last too long!!

    The correct way to do it, is to remove the pilot bearing from the end of the crank, and get the hole opened up in the flywheel, and fit it there instead :thumbsup:
     
  15. Plus you've the added issue of the clutch friction disc running off centre, adding an imbalance to the engine too...
     

  16. So is it possible to simply leave the bearing in the crank and just add one to the flywheel?
    :)
     
  17. You'd think so, but no, it has to come out, as the bearing is thicker than the flywheel.. :)
     
    Joker likes this.
  18. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    @Paul Weeding, the little job I mentioned earlier :D

    We have been measuring the bearing journals on the engine case and found the following, the case has not been align bored before:
    #1 journal either side of the split line is to tolerance (70.00mm using calibrated equipment) but measuring 90 degrees around the journal it appears to be over the spec, some 70.1mm (this is with the case halves rested on top of one another and not bolted together).

    #2 journal on both case halves has got the bearing part number and VW imprinted on the journal itself (hence why we didn't clamp the case halves together).

    #3 looks fine although it did have a very light mark on it from a dowel pin, which was ~1" long but polished away with some really fine emery paper.

    I am certain it needs align boring due to journal #2, so, my question is who would you recommend to do the following:

    Clean the case halves to remove any remaining oil
    Align bore the engine case (I have no idea of the tolerance to bore it to)
    Regrind the crankshaft to suit
    Supply the correct bearings for both

    Do you have an idea of approximate costs too (ball park figures)

    Thanks :D
     
  19. Personally i would of said torque the case halves together then re-measure . They don`t usually need align boring but stateside are the only guys that can do it .
     
  20. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    Would it matter that the middle journal has an imprint of the lettering on it Steve?
     

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