Morks Type 4 1800 AP engine project

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by MorkC68, Nov 1, 2013.

  1. Got this engine a few weeks ago courtesy of @bumpnudger7 who was going to rebuild it & do one or two tweaks, he had a change of plans so Ive got it.

    Its an 1800 AP series motor, got a few bits missing but I'm not too worried as I'll sort it as & when. It came partially stripped & one of the heads was a 2.0 opposed to the other being the correct one which Ive now sourced courtesy of Peasoup!
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    Ive had a look closely at both cylinder heads, they look dusty and oily, need stripping and cleaning, the valves relapping in but both initially appear crack free when I checked them with a microscope
    [​IMG]

    The barrels are original VW ones, again they look scruffy with some carbon build up at the top however the main thing is that there is no wear on the inner bore - they are a constant 93mm all the way up and down & appear to be concentric (just a quick measure to start with).

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    The strip down begins!
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    Last edited: Jul 10, 2017
  2. Ive checked the block over & both case halves match up, they have 562 stamped either side of the split line and the block doesn't look too bad, nothing which a good clean wont cure. Ill remove the flywheel and check any end float first see where we stand then strip the block back bare & check the crank and rods.

    If alls well & nothing is damaged/cracked we will then get the crank measured, see what bearings it needs and sort that.
    Clean the rods, make them all the same weight, new big ends etc
    Check the oil pump, see what condition its in
    If possible the overall goal is to build a 1915cc motor with a decent cam (spec I need to check up on) - the barrels should stand opening up, unless Ive missed something so far!

    I need to source the tinware, rockers, pushrods and tubes, rocker covers, carbs, thermostat, flaps and cable and Im sure more will be needed later :thumbsup:
     
  3. Subscribed.
    Look forward to watching, and asking questions, If you don't mind.
    Never know, I may be able to help as well. Good luck mate.
     
  4. cheers Oscar, I'm sure it will be me asking questions as well!! As and when I do bits I'll post up, this is the first aircooled I am doing, the last motor I did was a Sunbeam 1600 back in 1987!

    Any help, hints, tips or thoughts will be gratefully accepted :)
     
  5. Check for wear in the valves and guides, 99% of engines that I have coming through have worn out valve stems, and guides, so time for new ones!!

    But good luck with it :thumbsup:
     
  6. Cheers Paul, Ill get some photos of the stems etc and get some measurements of those too, I hope they will be okay :)
     
  7. My project at the moment is my second aircooled.
    The first was A Suzuki TS50 when I was 17. Lol
     
    MorkC68 likes this.
  8. Good man
    :)
     
    MorkC68 likes this.
  9. It's easy enough to check... get the springs and retainers off, then open the valve by around 10mm, and give it a wiggle from side to side... if it "wobbles" then you're pretty much worn out... at that stage, if I find play, I measure the stems to see what their diameter is...

    All of your wear tolerances are listed in the haynes :)

    Another thing to check is the wrist pin "wobble" in the little end... basically their shouldn't be any play, and the pin should virtually hold itself in the little end when lightly oiled!! :)

    And don't forget to measure the crank journals, mains and big ends... I've got around six 66mm stroke cranks on the shelf, and they are all worn to around 0.1mm outside of tolerance :eek:
     
  10. cheers for the information Paul, much appreciated!

    :thumbsup:
     
    Paul Weeding likes this.
  11. Not a problem dude :thumbsup:
     
  12. Would it not be wise to replace valves and guides as a matter of course especially exhaust valves ? You can recut your seats with a 3 angle job whilst at it , I made some valve seat recutting tools when I did mine , should still have them somewhere
     
    MorkC68 likes this.
  13. I'm watching and learning too, good luck Mark!
     
    MorkC68 likes this.
  14. You'll want to leave the flywheel on to check the endfloat. Good thread, I'll be watching and no doubt be jealous of your access to a machine shop.
     
    MorkC68 and 68_early_bay like this.
  15. As long as they are in tolerance, then technically there is no need to replace them... but it's not often that you're in that situation these days!! A lot of these engines are 34 years old at the bare minimum, or 41 at the max... and most I've had come through are still running OG bearings and never been to bits since the day they were made!! :)
     
  16. Good thread. I will be following as I really fancy having a go at something like this.
     
    MorkC68 likes this.
  17. sANDYbAY

    sANDYbAY On benefits-won't sponsor!

    I think I'll follow this thread, I may pick up a few tips that i can pass onto my engine builder.
     
    MorkC68, Paul Weeding and zed like this.
  18. Thanks for the comments, feedback and support in this thread, it's appreciated! I'm far from an expert in engine building so it may (I sure hope not) go pear shaped - I will take my time with it and do my best!

    Zed, I'll check the end float in the week properly & report back :)
     
  19. When I did a t1 complete rebuild I took a couple of months pottering over it, but it was well worth it and ran super smoothly. Possibly that was just luck, but take your time, check everything then nothing can go wrong. :cool:
     
    Datsolow and Joker like this.
  20. Exactly that Zed :thumbsup:
     

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