Type 4 fuel injection issues - please help

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by The Little Camper Company, Mar 2, 2017.

  1. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    you need to open the top inspection hatch to look down. Towards the firewall behind the air filterbox there is a small hose, I forget where it goes (it may be a four way connector) but its fiddly! I cant nab a photo from our westy, its in refurb.
     
  2. There is a vac hose that goes to a valve towards the front of the box where the charcole filter attaches
     
  3. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    Ill have a search around see if I have a photo later on, that might be the hose
     
  4. Thank you, there is one that goes to the fuel pressure regulator and that's all correct


    Here is a silly question, what should the timing be for a FI engine, would it be 7.5 degrees? This is what I have it set at.
     
  5. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    I think so, it'll tell you in the Bentley manual. TBH, we have never checked it as it ran spot on until this winter when it sat, its got a misfire at 3000 rpm now :(
     
  6. It's not that clear in the Bentley book for FI engines
     
  7. 7.5 deg BTDC, if you want to adjust the idle speed use the big screw on the throttle body about the size of a penny.

    Do not mess with the AFM SCREW anymore. But as you already have set it at about half way
     
  8. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    bugger :(
     
  9. Never mess with the screw on the AFM.,,,,
    remove the plastic covers to the AFM's and look for the one that is not as much worn on the potentiometer. Carefully turn the wiper ,to the left with the key on to hear the fuel pump running. And You want to find the least worn unit. Undo the tiny screw with locktight substanceand move the arm 1 mm advanced increments. When they come from the factory they are completely leaned out due to regulations and carbon omissions. Always replace the cover .Right away you don't want any dirt getting in there.You can also make two into one that's what I did
     
  10. Bal
    halfway would be about about 4 turns I guess
     
  11. Be sure to make sure that everything else is working in functional before you mess with the AFM anything else that might be costly and then only at the last resort..be confident in what you and do don't jump around you only get nowhere.faster , step by step. Check the ohms on the temp sens. 2 first .. On the big J tube leading to the oil bath on back ,check and make sure there's no cracks even if it looks good those old ones good cracks all the time, especially underneath . you won't be able to finE tune a thing .
     
  12. Yep 4 turns from all the way in turning it out to the left
     
  13. pretty much everything I have on it's is brand new that's why I'm so confused as to why it's not running
     
  14. So as requested I started the bus today and connected the temp sensor to earth, it run and idled but so rich, again I could see black smoke, I quickly connected the temp sensor back to the loom, it picked up revs and then died within a few second

    I turned the AFM screw back to half way as suggested. I'm still no further forward :(
     
  15. Yes it will run and idle very rich with the ts2 disconnected. But does it stay running
     
  16. Flakey

    Flakey Supporter

    Sounds thermo time switch, cold start valve(5th injector) to me. Will it start with the 5th injector unplugged?
     
  17. Haha, that was doing to be my next suggestion also.
     
  18. Check, recheck and re-recheck all vacuum hoses including s boot, I had exactly the Same problem and only after checking every hose inch by inch did I find a tiny crack in the s boot that was not easy to spot due to it being hidden in a ridge.
     

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