Is your leak picture head/barrel? They don't leak oil there, it must come from elsewhere. If you mean leaking combustion, IMO you're safe to increase the torque to 25 lb/ft - I have mine at 27.5 lb/ft - I wouldn't go that far, I have big cylinders.
It ended up being residue and incorrect setup of the 123 tune plus that was causing my issues. Had her started up this morning after removing all the tinware to check the head torque Zedders I am going to be a pain sorry and pm you regarding this 123 tune plus I'm stumped on maps. Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Interesting assembling without the head shrouds - will that not be a PITA? I had to immediately re-torque the heads on my first type-1, I'd used the wrong setting for the stud dia. and it sounded baaad. Torque has to be applied smoothly (keep it moving until it clicks) the threads must be clean and oiled. I've PM'd you a basic mech curve (that I took from my stock correct distributor) and a vac curve I got from Samba, possibly one @mikedjames posted up.
Tin was off so I didn't have to take engine out to re torque the heads. She's now running but needs a bit of a tweak and one small leak to sort. Current on the original distributor as that tune 123 plus is being a pain. Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Unfortunately the instructions incomplete and official advice is only through suppliers who think it works differently to the instructions but for all we know are all doing it wrong. Me too.
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for replies in this thread. She did well on the way to camper site last month 250 plus miles, apart from a few hickups one being to much oil because my drive isn't flat we seem to be all ok so far. Finally have the 123 ignition installed also thanks to zedders for base Map, few local drives to get it dialed in. Successful lockdown project (ish) and first top end strip down I have ever done Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
